{"id":4567,"date":"2022-12-24T08:34:48","date_gmt":"2022-12-24T07:34:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/?p=4567"},"modified":"2026-09-07T11:18:42","modified_gmt":"2026-09-07T09:18:42","slug":"2022lindeaufildeleau","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022lindeaufildeleau\/","title":{"rendered":"2022 : L&rsquo;Inde au fil de l&rsquo;eau, au fil des retrouvailles"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-layout-flex wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button galerie-piwigo-btn\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/linde-retrouvee-2022\/\"><strong>Voir l&rsquo;Inde retrouv\u00e9e 2022<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button galerie-piwigo-btn\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>Portraits crois\u00e9s en Inde<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button galerie-piwigo-btn\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/streetartinde\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong><strong>Street art indien<\/strong><\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-10122022%20%20CD%20813-Inde7-2048x1365.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5416\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Trois ans plus tard<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Trois ans.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Jamais, depuis notre premier voyage, nous n\u2019\u00e9tions rest\u00e9s aussi longtemps sans retourner en Inde. <br>Le Covid avait tout arr\u00eat\u00e9, d\u2019abord chez nous, puis l\u00e0-bas. <br>Pendant ces trois ann\u00e9es, il y avait eu le manque, bien s\u00fbr, mais aussi cette inqui\u00e9tude que nous n\u2019osions pas trop formuler : Pal et sa famille allaient-ils bien ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ils allaient bien.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et ce cinqui\u00e8me voyage allait m\u00eame nous offrir quelque chose que les pr\u00e9c\u00e9dents ne nous avaient jamais donn\u00e9 : entrer un peu plus dans sa vie. <br>Nous avons rencontr\u00e9 une partie de sa famille, ses petites-filles, et surtout son \u00e9pouse, une femme discr\u00e8te que j\u2019ai eu la chance de photographier.<br>Nous avons partag\u00e9 un th\u00e9, quelques douceurs, un moment tout simple dont je ne pouvais \u00e9videmment pas mesurer alors la valeur qu\u2019il aurait un jour. <br>Elle nous a quitt\u00e9s depuis.<br>Aujourd\u2019hui, ces quelques photographies sont devenues pr\u00e9cieuses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-19112022%20CD%209288-2048x1463.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6644\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pour ces vingt-deux jours, j\u2019avais imagin\u00e9 un fil conducteur : l\u2019eau. Le Gange, la Yamuna, la Narmada\u2026 <br>Nous allions suivre les fleuves, les rivi\u00e8res, les ghats, prendre davantage notre temps et rester plus longtemps dans certaines villes. <br>Delhi, Bateshwar, Lucknow, Varanasi, Allahabad, Chitrakoot, Jabalpur, Orchha, Gwalior, Agra, puis Gokul, Mathura, Vrindavan et Barsana avant le retour vers Delhi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mais comme toujours en Inde, le v\u00e9ritable fil du voyage allait surtout \u00eatre ce qui se passerait entre les \u00e9tapes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Lucknow \u2014 Une petite fille en jaune<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bateshwar ne fut cette fois qu\u2019une \u00e9tape. <br>En revanche, sur la route de Lucknow, je retrouvais d\u00e9j\u00e0 ce que j\u2019aime tant : les matins brumeux, les arbres presque nus dont les branches dessinent des silhouettes incroyables dans la lumi\u00e8re, les villages qui s\u2019\u00e9veillent au bord de la chauss\u00e9e et cette envie permanente de demander \u00e0 Pal de s\u2019arr\u00eater.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-mammiferes-20112022-cd-9317\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Mammiferes-20112022 CD 9317-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-20112022-cd-9372\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-20112022 CD 9372-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-20112022-cd-9304\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-20112022 CD 9304-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-19112022-cd-9294\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-19112022 CD 9294-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-20112022-cd-9353\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-20112022 CD 9353-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Puis Lucknow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">J\u2019en garde le souvenir d\u2019une ville grouillante mais \u00e9trangement douce, o\u00f9 l\u2019agitation semble ne jamais devenir agressive. <br>Ancienne cit\u00e9 des nawabs, elle conserve une \u00e9l\u00e9gance particuli\u00e8re au milieu du tumulte, avec ses grandes portes, ses monuments h\u00e9rit\u00e9s de son pass\u00e9, mais surtout ses march\u00e9s, ses ruelles, ses \u00e9choppes et cette vie qui d\u00e9borde partout. <br>Comme souvent, ce sont moins les pierres que ce qui se passe autour d\u2019elles qui m\u2019attire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9518\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9518-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-20112022-cd-9464\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-20112022 CD 9464-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-20112022-cd-9377\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-20112022 CD 9377-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-21112022-cd-9515\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-21112022 CD 9515-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-21112022-cd-9507\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-21112022 CD 9507-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Malgr\u00e9 tout, Lucknow poss\u00e8de aussi une m\u00e9moire beaucoup plus sombre. <br>Nous avons parcouru The Residency, ancien quartier britannique devenu l\u2019un des lieux embl\u00e9matiques de la r\u00e9volte de 1857. Au milieu des pelouses subsistent des b\u00e2timents \u00e9ventr\u00e9s, des fa\u00e7ades perc\u00e9es et des murs encore marqu\u00e9s par les combats. <br>Le lieu a quelque chose d\u2019\u00e9trange : la v\u00e9g\u00e9tation et le calme ont repris possession de ces ruines, mais les blessures sont toujours l\u00e0, laiss\u00e9es volontairement visibles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-3' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9527\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9527-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9524\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9524-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9523\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9523-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9531\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9531-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9533\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9533-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9537\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9537-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-21112022-cd-9538\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-21112022 CD 9538-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9545\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9545-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9542\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9542-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9541\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9541-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9540\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9540-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9551\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9551-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il y eut aussi un lieu devant lequel la photographe que je suis ne pouvait pas rester indiff\u00e9rente : le parc m\u00e9morial Ambedkar. <br>Immense, monumental, presque d\u00e9mesur\u00e9, avec cette pierre aux tons chauds qui prend magnifiquement la lumi\u00e8re. <br>Mais ce sont surtout ses \u00e9l\u00e9phants qui m\u2019ont fascin\u00e9e&#8230;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Immense, monumental, presque d\u00e9mesur\u00e9, avec cette pierre aux tons chauds qui prend magnifiquement la lumi\u00e8re.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mais ce sont surtout ses \u00e9l\u00e9phants en marbre qui m\u2019ont fascin\u00e9e. <br>Une longue procession de sculptures monumentales, parfaitement align\u00e9es, r\u00e9p\u00e9tant leurs silhouettes avec une r\u00e9gularit\u00e9 presque hypnotique. Difficile de r\u00e9sister \u00e0 une telle perspective lorsqu\u2019on aime autant les \u00e9l\u00e9phants que la photographie. <br>Au milieu de cette architecture imposante, cette rang\u00e9e reste pour moi l\u2019une des images fortes de Lucknow.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">M\u00eame si mon \u00e2me de photographe a \u00e9t\u00e9 pein\u00e9e car je n\u2019ai pu faire ces photos qu\u2019avec mon t\u00e9l\u00e9phone, les appareils photos \u00e9tant interdits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-4' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-20221121162707\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 20221121162707-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-143438\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 143438-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-20221121152901\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 20221121152901-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-20221121144009\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 20221121144009-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-20221121150637\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 20221121150637-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-20221121151327\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 20221121151327-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-20221121161106\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 20221121161106-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-20221121160749\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 20221121160749-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-21112022-cd-20221121145617\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-21112022 CD 20221121145617-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-20221121153741\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 20221121153741-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-20221121160036\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 20221121160036-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-20221121151642\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 20221121151642-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-20221121152957\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 20221121152957-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022%20CD%2020221121155632-2048x920.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5432\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La Gomti traverse la ville et, puisque l\u2019eau devait guider ce voyage, nous nous sommes naturellement retrouv\u00e9s sur ses berges. <br>L\u00e0, Lucknow change encore de visage. On y lave, on s\u2019y baigne, on \u00e9tend le linge, on discute, on travaille. <br>La rivi\u00e8re appartient \u00e0 la vie quotidienne bien davantage qu\u2019au d\u00e9cor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-5' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-20112022-cd-142059\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-20112022 CD 142059-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-oiseaux-20112022-cd-9387\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Oiseaux-20112022 CD 9387-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C\u2019est l\u00e0 que j\u2019ai pris l\u2019une des photographies auxquelles je tiens le plus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Une jeune fille d\u2019une douzaine d\u2019ann\u00e9es se baignait dans la rivi\u00e8re, v\u00eatue d\u2019une kurta jaune. Un rayon de soleil l\u2019\u00e9clairait et son reflet se dessinait dans l\u2019eau verd\u00e2tre. Lorsqu\u2019elle est sortie, tremp\u00e9e, son tout petit fr\u00e8re l\u2019attendait, couch\u00e9 \u00e0 m\u00eame le sol. Elle l\u2019a pris dans ses bras et l\u2019a embrass\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">J\u2019ai d\u00e9clench\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sur ma photographie, il n\u2019y avait plus ni pauvret\u00e9, ni rivi\u00e8re trouble, ni v\u00eatements mouill\u00e9s. <br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Seulement une grande s\u0153ur serrant son petit fr\u00e8re contre elle.<br>Cette photo est aujourd\u2019hui accroch\u00e9e chez nous. <br>Et chaque fois que je la regarde, je retrouve exactement l\u2019\u00e9motion de cet instant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-6' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-20112022-cd-9397\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-20112022 CD 9397-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/portrait-inde-20112022-cd-9414\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Portrait Inde-20112022 CD 9414-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Lucknow nous r\u00e9serva aussi des sc\u00e8nes beaucoup plus joyeuses : des dizaines de m\u00e8tres de linge s\u00e9chant au soleil, formant de longues bandes de couleurs sur les berges.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-7' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-20112022-cd-9421\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-20112022-CD-9421-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-20112022-cd-9418\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-20112022-CD-9418-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et puis Lucknow nous r\u00e9serva encore l\u2019une de ces rencontres que l\u2019Inde d\u00e9pose sur votre chemin sans pr\u00e9venir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dans la rue, une procession avan\u00e7ait au milieu d\u2019un \u00e9trange nuage blanc. Des hommes dansaient, les bras lev\u00e9s, le visage, les cheveux et les v\u00eatements enti\u00e8rement recouverts de cendre. Elle flottait dans l\u2019air, s\u2019accrochait aux peaux, effa\u00e7ait presque les couleurs et donnait \u00e0 la sc\u00e8ne une atmosph\u00e8re irr\u00e9elle. <br>Au milieu d\u2019eux, un jeune gar\u00e7on attirait tous les regards. Le visage blanchi, disparaissant sous une immense chevelure noire emm\u00eal\u00e9e, couvert de colliers et de parures, il incarnait Shiva ou l\u2019une de ces figures asc\u00e9tiques qui lui sont associ\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cette fois, je sais au moins ce que j\u2019avais devant les yeux : une procession shiva\u00efte, m\u00eame si je n\u2019en ai jamais connu le nom exact.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous nous \u00e9tions arr\u00eat\u00e9s pour regarder et photographier. <br>Tr\u00e8s vite, rester spectateurs n\u2019a plus \u00e9t\u00e9 possible : on nous a invit\u00e9s \u00e0 entrer dans la f\u00eate. <br>Nous nous sommes retrouv\u00e9s parmi eux, dans la poussi\u00e8re de cendre, les gestes, les danses et cette ferveur joyeuse dont je ne comprenais ni les codes ni les paroles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je n\u2019avais aucune id\u00e9e de ce que je c\u00e9l\u00e9brais avec eux. <br>Cela n\u2019avait finalement pas beaucoup d\u2019importance. Pendant quelques instants, ils nous avaient fait une place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et lorsque nous sommes repartis, nous portions nous aussi sur nos v\u00eatements et notre peau un peu de cette poussi\u00e8re blanche de Shiva.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-8' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-20112022-cd-0151\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-20112022 CD 0151-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-20112022-cd-0165\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-20112022 CD 0165-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-20112022-cd-0140\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-20112022 CD 0140-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-20112022-cd-0110\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-20112022 CD 0110-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-20112022-cd-0114\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-20112022 CD 0114-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-20112022-cd-0117\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-20112022 CD 0117-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Encore une fois, nous \u00e9tions arriv\u00e9s quelque part sans vraiment savoir ce qui s\u2019y passait, et quelques minutes plus tard nous en faisions partie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C\u2019est aussi cela, l\u2019Inde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Avant de quitter Lucknow, je suis retourn\u00e9e une derni\u00e8re fois dans ses rues, sans rien chercher de particulier. Juste marcher et regarder. C\u2019est souvent ainsi que je pr\u00e9f\u00e8re les villes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il y avait encore tous ces petits morceaux de vie qui m\u2019arr\u00eatent : un vieil homme assis dans l\u2019encadrement de sa boutique, les mains jointes dans un namast\u00e9 silencieux ; un marchand d\u00e9versant sa montagne de carottes, un autre derri\u00e8re ses sacs d\u2019\u00e9pices ; un artisan travaillant \u00e0 m\u00eame le sol, concentr\u00e9 sur son ouvrage. Plus loin, des gamins me regardaient avec cette assurance incroyable qu\u2019ont parfois les enfants devant mon objectif.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et puis les d\u00e9tails, ceux qui racontent presque autant que les visages : l\u2019\u00e9norme marmite caboss\u00e9e d\u2019une cuisine de rue, une vache cherchant de quoi manger au milieu des sacs et des d\u00e9tritus, le linge suspendu devant les maisons, les murs bleus, verts, \u00e9caill\u00e9s par le temps, les portes entrouvertes sur des vies que je ne ferai qu\u2019effleurer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-9' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-21112022-cd-9560\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-21112022 CD 9560-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9569\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9569-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-oiseaux-21112022-cd-9619\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Oiseaux-21112022 CD 9619-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9584\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9584-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9588\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9588-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-21112022-cd-9590\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-21112022 CD 9590-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-21112022-cd-9596\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-21112022 CD 9596-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-21112022-cd-9603\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-21112022 CD 9603-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-21112022-cd-9611\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-21112022 CD 9611-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-21112022-cd-9612\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-21112022 CD 9612-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-21112022-cd-9572\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-21112022 CD 9572-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Apr\u00e8s tout ce que Lucknow venait de nous offrir: ses rues, ses rencontres et cette incroyable procession surgie de nulle part, ces derni\u00e8res images \u00e9taient beaucoup plus simples. <br>La vie ordinaire avait repris sa place. Et c\u2019\u00e9tait peut-\u00eatre la meilleure fa\u00e7on de lui dire au revoir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et la route devait continuer vers un endroit o\u00f9 l\u2019eau ne serait plus seulement le fil conducteur du voyage, mais son c\u0153ur m\u00eame. <br>Apr\u00e8s la Gomti, nous allions retrouver le Gange. B\u00e9nar\u00e8s nous attendait.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Varanasi \u2014 L\u00e0 o\u00f9 le Gange emporte les \u00e2mes<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cinq ans apr\u00e8s 2017, je retrouvais enfin B\u00e9nar\u00e8s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et cette fois, je voulais y rester.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 peine install\u00e9e au Ganpati Guest House, la vue depuis les hauteurs sur les ghats m\u2019a rendu cette sorte de fi\u00e8vre que seule Varanasi provoque chez moi. <br>Au petit matin, la ville semblait \u00e9merger lentement de la brume. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-24112022%20CD%200684-2048x1365.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-7630\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>Le Gange se devinait avant de vraiment appara\u00eetre, les fa\u00e7ades s\u2019effa\u00e7aient peu \u00e0 peu dans le lointain et, en contrebas, les premi\u00e8res barques glissaient d\u00e9j\u00e0 sur l\u2019eau.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Les couleurs, les odeurs, le bruit, les p\u00e8lerins, les s\u00e2dhus, les ablutions, les pri\u00e8res, les cr\u00e9mations\u2026 <br>Ici, tout ce que notre culture s\u00e9pare semble cohabiter naturellement. <br>Les ghats sont \u00e0 la fois lieux de passage, de rencontre, de d\u00e9votion, de toilette, de travail et, pour certains, de cr\u00e9mation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La vie et la mort se fr\u00f4lent sans cesse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En 2017, B\u00e9nar\u00e8s m\u2019impressionnait encore. <br>En 2022, c\u2019est moi qui avais chang\u00e9. <br>Je pouvais partir seule dans les ruelles, appareil en main, aller vers les gens, sourire, demander une photographie. <br>Sunny \u00e9tait de nouveau avec nous, mais je n\u2019avais plus besoin d\u2019\u00eatre rassur\u00e9e \u00e0 chaque coin de rue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous avons cette fois voulu parcourir les ghats \u00e0 pied, les uns apr\u00e8s les autres. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-10' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-24112022-cd-0776\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-24112022 CD 0776-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-25112022-cd-1026-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-25112022 CD 1026-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-24112022-cd-0975\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-24112022 CD 0975-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-24112022-cd-0985\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-24112022 CD 0985-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-25112022-cd-0995\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-25112022 CD 0995-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-25112022-cd-1000\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-25112022 CD 1000-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-25112022-cd-1047\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-25112022 CD 1047-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portraits-2022-25112022-cd-10281\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-portraits-2022-25112022-CD-10281-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-25112022-cd-1029\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-25112022 CD 1029-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-23112022-cd-0346\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-23112022 CD 0346-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>C\u2019est sans doute ainsi que j\u2019aime le plus B\u00e9nar\u00e8s : lentement, sans v\u00e9ritable programme, en regardant simplement ce qui se d\u00e9roule devant moi. <br>On passe d\u2019une ablution \u00e0 une pri\u00e8re, d\u2019un s\u00e2dhu immobile \u00e0 des enfants qui jouent, d\u2019un linge \u00e9tendu sur les marches \u00e0 un cort\u00e8ge fun\u00e9raire. <br>Et quelques dizaines de m\u00e8tres plus loin, la vie ordinaire reprend comme si rien ne venait de se passer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-11' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-23112022-cd-0209\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-23112022 CD 0209-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0263-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0263-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0238-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0238-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-23112022-cd-0246\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-23112022 CD 0246-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-23112022-cd-0231\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-23112022 CD 0231-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-23112022-cd-0274\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-23112022 CD 0274-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0297-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0297-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0336-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0336-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-23112022-cd-0401\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-23112022 CD 0401-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0404\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0404-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-23112022-cd-0529-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-23112022 CD 0529-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-23112022-cd-0487\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-23112022 CD 0487-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-23112022-cd-0500\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-23112022 CD 0500-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0514-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0514-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-street-art-23112022-cd-0447\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Street Art-23112022 CD 0447-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-24112022-cd-0698\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-24112022 CD 0698-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-24112022-cd-0701-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-24112022 CD 0701-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">J\u2019y ai d\u00e9couvert aussi ces hommes auxquels on rasait enti\u00e8rement la t\u00eate au bord du Gange, parfois des femmes \u00e9galement. <br>Je ne comprenais pas toujours ce que j\u2019avais devant les yeux. <br>Sur les marches du ghat, le cr\u00e2ne se rase et se lib\u00e8re. <br>Pour l&rsquo;enfant, c&rsquo;est le&nbsp;<em>mundan<\/em>&nbsp;: on efface les impuret\u00e9s d&rsquo;une vie ant\u00e9rieure et l&rsquo;on scelle une protection divine. <br>Pour l&rsquo;adulte en deuil ou en d\u00e9votion, c&rsquo;est un karma qu&rsquo;on d\u00e9pose dans les eaux du Gange, \u00e0 B\u00e9nar\u00e8s, ville de Shiva, o\u00f9 mourir lib\u00e8re du cycle des renaissances.<br>\u00c0 B\u00e9nar\u00e8s, j\u2019ai souvent photographi\u00e9 avant de comprendre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-12' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-23112022-cd-0389\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-23112022 CD 0389-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-24112022-cd-0971\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-24112022 CD 0971-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-25112022-cd-1062\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-25112022 CD 1062-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-25112022-cd-1064\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-25112022 CD 1064-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-25112022-cd-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-25112022 CD 2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-23112022-cd-0379\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-23112022-CD-0379-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous avons aussi quitt\u00e9 les ghats pour aller voir l\u2019arri\u00e8re de B\u00e9nar\u00e8s. <br>Et il suffit parfois de s\u2019enfoncer de quelques rues pour que la ville change compl\u00e8tement. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-13' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-25112022-cd-1128\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-25112022 CD 1128-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-25112022-cd-1132-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-25112022 CD 1132-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-25112022-cd-1152\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-25112022 CD 1152-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-28012023-cd-1157\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-28012023 CD 1157-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-25112022-cd-1164-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-25112022 CD 1164-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-25112022-cd-1175\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-25112022 CD 1175-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-25112022-cd-1185-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-25112022 CD 1185-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-25112022-cd-1188-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-25112022 CD 1188-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-25112022-cd-1233\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-25112022 CD 1233-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-25112022-cd-1235\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-25112022 CD 1235-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Derri\u00e8re cette fa\u00e7ade extraordinaire tourn\u00e9e vers le fleuve existe un d\u00e9dale de ruelles \u00e9troites, d\u2019\u00e9choppes, de petites maisons, de temples discrets et de sc\u00e8nes de vie. On s\u2019y perd facilement, on y croise des vaches, des scooters, des habitants qui semblent conna\u00eetre par c\u0153ur ce labyrinthe o\u00f9 je n\u2019aurais pas toujours su retrouver mon chemin. <br>C\u2019est une autre B\u00e9nar\u00e8s, moins spectaculaire peut-\u00eatre, mais tout aussi fascinante.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-14' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0355-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0355-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-24112022-cd-0823\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-24112022 CD 0823-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-24112022-cd-0856\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-24112022 CD 0856-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-24112022-cd-08711\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-24112022 CD 08711-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-animaux-24112022-cd-0903\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-animaux-24112022 CD 0903-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-oiseaux-24112022-cd-0904-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Oiseaux-24112022 CD 0904-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-24112022-cd-0916\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-24112022 CD 0916-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-24112022-cd-0929\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-24112022 CD 0929-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-street-art-24112022-cd-0937\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Street Art-24112022 CD 0937-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-24112022-cd-0965\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-24112022 CD 0965-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-25112022-cd-1094\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-25112022 CD 1094-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et puis il y eut mes petits Shivas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Deux jeunes gar\u00e7ons au visage peint en bleu que je croisais sur les ghats. <br>J\u2019avais donn\u00e9 quelques pi\u00e8ces \u00e0 l\u2019un d\u2019eux et je l\u2019avais vu partir vers une petite baraque pour acheter \u00e0 manger. <br>Le vendeur ne voulait pas de son argent. Alors je suis all\u00e9e le voir et j\u2019ai achet\u00e9 ce que le gar\u00e7on d\u00e9sirait, pour lui et pour son ami.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 partir de ce jour-l\u00e0, nous nous sommes reconnus chaque fois que nous nous croisions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il faut dire que nous \u00e9tions assez faciles \u00e0 rep\u00e9rer : lui bleu, moi rousse !<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au d\u00e9but, il posait devant mon appareil sans sourire. <br>Puis les sourires sont venus, m\u00eame lorsque je ne prenais plus de photo. <br>Je pouvais l\u2019apercevoir au loin au milieu de la foule et nous nous faisions signe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-15' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-16012023-cd-0748\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-16012023 CD 0748-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-24112022-cd-0747\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-24112022 CD 0747-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-24112022-cd-0746\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-24112022 CD 0746-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-16012023-cd-0750\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-16012023 CD 0750-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portaits-22112022-cd-9796\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portaits-22112022-CD-9796-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il reste l\u2019un de mes plus beaux souvenirs de Varanasi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous avons bien s\u00fbr retrouv\u00e9 le Ganga Aarti, \u00e0 Dashashwamedh Ghat. Lorsque la nuit tombe, les pr\u00eatres \u00e9l\u00e8vent les grandes lampes de cuivre, les cloches et les cymbales r\u00e9sonnent, les mantras accompagnent les flammes et la fum\u00e9e de l\u2019encens se m\u00eale \u00e0 celle qui flotte d\u00e9j\u00e0 au-dessus du fleuve.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-16' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-22112022-cd-9800\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-22112022 CD 9800-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-22112022-cd-9823-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-22112022 CD 9823-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-22112022-cd-9839-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-22112022 CD 9839-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-22112022-cd-9918-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-22112022 CD 9918-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-22112022-cd-9797\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-22112022 CD 9797-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-22112022-cd-9965-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-22112022 CD 9965-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-22112022-cd-9883\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-22112022 CD 9883-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-22112022-cd-9986-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-22112022 CD 9986-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-22112022-cd-9958\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-22112022 CD 9958-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mais \u00e0 B\u00e9nar\u00e8s, la nuit ne met rien au repos. <br>Elle transforme la ville. Les ghats \u00e9clair\u00e9s, les silhouettes d\u00e9coup\u00e9es devant les flammes, les barques serr\u00e9es sur le Gange, les petites lumi\u00e8res confi\u00e9es au courant\u2026 L\u2019ambiance est folle, presque irr\u00e9elle. <br>De jour comme de nuit, il se passe toujours quelque chose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et apr\u00e8s avoir parcouru les ghats \u00e0 pied, nous les avons long\u00e9s depuis le Gange.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au matin, c\u2019est alors une autre ville qui appara\u00eet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Depuis la barque, on prend enfin du recul. Les marches s\u2019empilent, les palais et les fa\u00e7ades semblent pos\u00e9s les uns sur les autres, les temples surgissent derri\u00e8re les ghats et toute cette architecture forme une immense muraille irr\u00e9guli\u00e8re courant le long du fleuve. <br>Les sc\u00e8nes que nous avions observ\u00e9es de pr\u00e8s quelques heures auparavant deviennent de minuscules fragments d\u2019un ensemble beaucoup plus grand. <br>Le matin, lorsque la lumi\u00e8re traverse encore la brume, B\u00e9nar\u00e8s semble presque flotter entre l\u2019eau et le ciel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-17' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0015-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0015-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0047-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0047-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-23112022-cd-0073\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-23112022 CD 0073-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0083-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0083-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0093-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0093-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0104-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0104-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0112-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0112-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0172-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0172-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-23112022-cd-0200\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-23112022 CD 0200-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0578-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0578-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0583-inde-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0583-Inde-2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-23112022-cd-0587-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-23112022 CD 0587-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-23112022-cd-0598-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-23112022 CD 0598-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je pourrais faire cent fois cette travers\u00e9e et regarder cent fois ces m\u00eames ghats sans avoir l\u2019impression de voir la m\u00eame chose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-18' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-oiseaux-23112022-cd-9995\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-oiseaux-23112022-CD-9995-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-portraits-26112022-cd-1665\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-portraits-26112022-CD-1665-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-portraits-26112022-cd-1663\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-portraits-26112022-CD-1663-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-portraits-26112022-cd-1662\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-portraits-26112022-CD-1662-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-26112022-cd-1660\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-26112022-CD-1660-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-26112022-cd-1656\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-26112022-CD-1656-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-26112022-cd-1646\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-26112022-CD-1646-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-26112022-cd-1639\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-26112022-CD-1639-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-26112022-cd-1683\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-26112022-CD-1683-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-26112022-cd-1684\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-26112022-CD-1684-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-26112022-cd-1644\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-26112022-CD-1644-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-26112022-cd-1679\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-26112022-CD-1679-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mais B\u00e9nar\u00e8s ne donne pas seulement de belles images.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous avions travers\u00e9 le Gange pour photographier les ghats au lever du soleil. <br>Sur l\u2019autre rive, une foule s\u2019est dirig\u00e9e vers un grand bateau de bois d\u00e9j\u00e0 tr\u00e8s charg\u00e9. <br>Il a chavir\u00e9. D\u2019autres embarcations sont arriv\u00e9es pour secourir les passagers, cr\u00e9ant \u00e0 leur tour un terrible chaos. <br>Des personnes se sont retrouv\u00e9es coinc\u00e9es sous les bateaux venus les aider.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Deux personnes ont perdu la vie sous nos yeux.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/26112022-CD-1330-2048x1365.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-7748\" srcset=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/26112022-CD-1330-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/26112022-CD-1330-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/26112022-CD-1330-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/26112022-CD-1330-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/26112022-CD-1330-18x12.jpg 18w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous \u00e9tions l\u00e0, impuissants. Cette sc\u00e8ne m\u2019a profond\u00e9ment marqu\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Peut-\u00eatre est-ce aussi pour cela que je ne parviens jamais \u00e0 raconter B\u00e9nar\u00e8s comme une simple \u00e9tape de voyage. <br>Elle peut \u00eatre lumineuse et terrible dans la m\u00eame journ\u00e9e, assourdissante puis \u00e9trangement silencieuse, belle sans chercher \u00e0 l\u2019\u00eatre. <br>Elle ne cache ni la vieillesse, ni la pauvret\u00e9, ni la mort, mais elle d\u00e9borde en m\u00eame temps d\u2019une \u00e9nergie qui donne l\u2019impression que la vie y est plus intense qu\u2019ailleurs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">B\u00e9nar\u00e8s reste ma ville pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9e en Inde. Pour moi, elle en est l\u2019\u00e2me.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il fallait pourtant reprendre la route. <br>Nous quittions B\u00e9nar\u00e8s et le Gange nous accompagnerait encore : notre prochaine \u00e9tape serait Allahabad, devenue Prayagraj, l\u00e0 o\u00f9 il rencontre la Yamuna au Sangam. <br>Apr\u00e8s avoir v\u00e9cu plusieurs jours au rythme du fleuve \u00e0 Varanasi, nous allions le retrouver autrement, au point de rencontre de deux rivi\u00e8res sacr\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Triveni Sangam \u2014 L\u00e0 o\u00f9 trois rivi\u00e8res ne font plus qu\u2019une<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Avant m\u00eame d\u2019arriver \u00e0 Allahabad, aujourd\u2019hui Prayagraj, nous nous sommes arr\u00eat\u00e9s au Triveni Sangam. <br>Et je ne m\u2019attendais pas \u00e0 d\u00e9couvrir un endroit d\u2019une telle ampleur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le Sangam est l\u2019un des lieux les plus sacr\u00e9s de l\u2019hindouisme. <br>C\u2019est ici que se rejoignent le Gange et la Yamuna, mais aussi, selon la tradition hindoue, une troisi\u00e8me rivi\u00e8re : la Saraswati, rivi\u00e8re mythique et invisible qui coulerait sous terre. <br>Deux eaux que l\u2019on peut r\u00e9ellement distinguer par leur couleur avant qu\u2019elles ne se m\u00ealent, tandis que la troisi\u00e8me appartient \u00e0 la croyance. <br>Pour les p\u00e8lerins, se baigner exactement \u00e0 leur confluence constitue un acte religieux majeur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ce qui m\u2019a surtout frapp\u00e9e en arrivant, c\u2019est l\u2019immensit\u00e9 du lieu et le monde. <br>Sur cette vaste \u00e9tendue de sable s\u2019alignaient des tentes, parfois extr\u00eamement rudimentaires, quelques abris de fortune o\u00f9 des familles semblaient vivre avec presque rien, des vendeurs install\u00e9s \u00e0 m\u00eame le sol, des marchands de fleurs et d\u2019offrandes, des p\u00e8lerins partout. <br>Ce n&rsquo;\u00e9tait pas la Kumbh Mela lors de notre passage, mais ces m\u00eames rives accueillent chaque ann\u00e9e la Magh Mela et, p\u00e9riodiquement, la gigantesque Kumbh Mela : le sable se transforme alors en une v\u00e9ritable ville \u00e9ph\u00e9m\u00e8re faite de milliers de tentes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous avons d\u00e9jeun\u00e9 l\u00e0, sous de grandes tentes, au milieu de cette agitation permanente. <br>Autour de nous se m\u00e9langeaient p\u00e8lerins, familles, vendeurs, animaux et petites installations pr\u00e9caires. <br>Mes photos en ont gard\u00e9 des fragments : les buffles mass\u00e9s jusque dans l&rsquo;eau, les marchandes de fleurs avec leurs brass\u00e9es de soucis orange, cette femme devant son linge et les tentes dress\u00e9es derri\u00e8re elle, ou encore ce personnage au visage bleu et \u00e0 l&rsquo;immense chevelure noire. <br>Et toujours cette foule.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-19' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-mammiferes-26112022-cd-3498-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Mammiferes-26112022 CD 3498-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-grand-mammiferes-26112022-cd-1782\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-grand-mammiferes-26112022-CD-1782-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-grandsmammiferes-divers-26112022-cd-3508\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-grandsmammiferes-divers-26112022-CD-3508-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il y avait aussi les bateaux, innombrables. Ils permettent de quitter la rive et de rejoindre le point pr\u00e9cis du Sangam, au milieu de l&rsquo;eau, o\u00f9 les p\u00e8lerins viennent accomplir leurs ablutions et leurs pri\u00e8res. <br>Des plateformes sont m\u00eame install\u00e9es sur l&rsquo;eau pour certains rituels.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 proximit\u00e9 se trouvent plusieurs lieux religieux, notamment le c\u00e9l\u00e8bre Bade Hanuman Ji, ainsi que le fort d&rsquo;Allahabad avec le temple souterrain de Patalpuri et l&rsquo;Akshaya Vat, le banyan sacr\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mais de Triveni Sangam, je crois que je retiens surtout ce contraste incroyable : une foule immense sur une \u00e9tendue presque nue, la pauvret\u00e9 de certains campements, les couleurs \u00e9clatantes des fleurs et des v\u00eatements, les animaux, les centaines de bateaux et, au milieu de tout cela, trois rivi\u00e8res qui se rejoignent \u2014 deux que l&rsquo;on voit, et une troisi\u00e8me que personne ne voit mais \u00e0 laquelle des millions de personnes croient.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-20' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-26112022-cd-1769\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-26112022-CD-1769-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-26112022-cd-3432\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-26112022 CD 3432-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-26112022-cd-3479\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-26112022 CD 3479-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2022-26112022-cd-3484\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2022-26112022 CD 3484-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-26112022-cd-1762\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-26112022-CD-1762-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-26112022-cd-34291\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-26112022 CD 34291-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-26112022-cd-1771\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-26112022-CD-1771-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-27112022-cd-3558-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-27112022 CD 3558-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-27112022-cd-3664\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-27112022-CD-3664-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-27112022-cd-3835\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-27112022-CD-3835-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-portrait-img_1976\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-portrait-IMG_1976-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-27112022-cd-3846\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-27112022 CD 3846-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-mammiferes-27112022-cd-3856\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Mammiferes-27112022 CD 3856-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-divers-img_2031\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Divers-IMG_2031-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-portrait-img_1978\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Portrait-IMG_1978-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Apr\u00e8s B\u00e9nar\u00e8s et son Gange omnipr\u00e9sent, le fleuve nous conduisait donc presque naturellement jusqu&rsquo;ici. <br>\u00c0 Triveni Sangam, nous ne suivions plus seulement le Gange : nous arrivions \u00e0 l&rsquo;endroit o\u00f9 il rencontre la Yamuna et, symboliquement, la Saraswati. Puis seulement, nous allions entrer dans Allahabad.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Allahabad \u2014 Le long de la Yamuna<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Apr\u00e8s Triveni Sangam, nous n&rsquo;avons pas rejoint imm\u00e9diatement notre h\u00f4tel. Il restait encore le fleuve.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous avons commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 longer la Yamuna \u00e0 pied, tandis que Pal avan\u00e7ait doucement en voiture et nous retrouvait un peu plus loin. <br>Une mani\u00e8re de voyager que nous avions prise depuis longtemps : marcher tant qu&rsquo;une rue, une rive ou une sc\u00e8ne nous retenait, avec la certitude que Pal ne serait jamais tr\u00e8s loin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et cette rive-l\u00e0 avait de quoi me retenir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Des buffles se baignaient dans le fleuve ou se reposaient sur la terre s\u00e8che. <br>Partout, des sc\u00e8nes de travail et de vie quotidienne. <br>Et puis il y avait ce pont immense dont les piles se perdaient dans la perspective. Je l&rsquo;ai photographi\u00e9 cet apr\u00e8s-midi-l\u00e0, puis je suis revenue le lendemain, tellement j&rsquo;aimais ses lignes et ce d\u00e9cor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-21' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-grandsmammiferes-divers-26112022-cd-3508\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-grandsmammiferes-divers-26112022-CD-3508-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-mammiferes-26112022-cd-3498-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Mammiferes-26112022 CD 3498-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-grand-mammiferes-26112022-cd-1782\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-grand-mammiferes-26112022-CD-1782-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-27112022-cd-3805\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-27112022-CD-3805-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sous le pont, la surprise \u00e9tait encore plus belle. <br>Les \u00e9normes piliers de b\u00e9ton avaient \u00e9t\u00e9 transform\u00e9s en supports de peintures color\u00e9es repr\u00e9sentant des divinit\u00e9s hindoues et des motifs traditionnels. <br>Rama, Ganesha et d&rsquo;autres figures apparaissaient successivement entre les piles, comme une galerie \u00e0 ciel ouvert au bord du fleuve. <br>La lumi\u00e8re entrait entre les piliers, la brume effa\u00e7ait peu \u00e0 peu l&rsquo;extr\u00e9mit\u00e9 du pont et, dessous, la vie continuait.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-22' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-26112022-cd-1825\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-26112022-CD-1825-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-26112022-cd-1832\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-26112022-CD-1832-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-26112022-cd-1830\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-26112022-CD-1830-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-26112022-cd-1829\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-26112022-CD-1829-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-27112022-cd-3576\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-27112022 CD 3576-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-street-art-27112022-cd-3603\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Street Art-27112022 CD 3603-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-street-art-27112022-cd-3608\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Street Art-27112022 CD 3608-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-27112022-cd-3878\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-27112022-CD-3878-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-27112022-cd-3884\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-27112022-CD-3884-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C&rsquo;est l\u00e0 aussi que j&rsquo;ai d\u00e9couvert ce que fabriquaient ces femmes que j&rsquo;avais d&rsquo;abord prises pour des briques. <br>Elles travaillaient la bouse de vache, la fa\u00e7onnaient \u00e0 la main puis disposaient les galettes par centaines pour les faire s\u00e9cher. <br>Une fois s\u00e8ches, elles deviennent un combustible. Une pratique encore tr\u00e8s pr\u00e9sente en Uttar Pradesh.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-23' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-27112022-cd-3874\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-27112022 CD 3874-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/20221127-inde-divers-528\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20221127-Inde-Divers-528-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-20221127-divers-530\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-20221127-Divers-530-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-divers-20221127-522\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Divers-20221127-522-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-27112022-cd-3597-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-27112022 CD 3597-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-27112022-cd-3595-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-27112022 CD 3595-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">J&rsquo;en ai photographi\u00e9 une, pench\u00e9e au milieu de toutes ces formes claires soigneusement align\u00e9es. <br>Une autre, v\u00eatue d&rsquo;un sari rouge \u00e9clatant, travaillait pr\u00e8s d&rsquo;une charrette. <br>Encore une de ces sc\u00e8nes qui auraient pu sembler parfaitement ordinaires ici et qui, pour moi, racontaient tellement de choses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Puis il y eut cette grand-m\u00e8re et sa petite-fille.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La petite \u00e9tait allong\u00e9e nue sur ses jambes et la grand-m\u00e8re la massait longuement avec de l&rsquo;huile. J&rsquo;ai appris qu&rsquo;il s&rsquo;agissait d&rsquo;huile de moutarde. <br>Le massage des b\u00e9b\u00e9s \u00e0 l&rsquo;huile est une tradition extr\u00eamement r\u00e9pandue en Inde et il est tr\u00e8s souvent pratiqu\u00e9 par les femmes les plus \u00e2g\u00e9es de la famille ; une \u00e9tude men\u00e9e en Inde indique m\u00eame que les grands-m\u00e8res sont les personnes qui le r\u00e9alisent le plus fr\u00e9quemment. <br>L&rsquo;huile de moutarde fait partie des huiles traditionnellement employ\u00e9es dans certaines r\u00e9gions du nord de l&rsquo;Inde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je ne savais rien de tout cela lorsque j&rsquo;ai d\u00e9clench\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022%20CD%203623-2048x1463.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-7672\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je voyais simplement une grand-m\u00e8re assise par terre, ses mains pos\u00e9es sur le corps de sa petite-fille, reproduisant probablement des gestes transmis depuis des g\u00e9n\u00e9rations. Autour d&rsquo;elles, la terre, les galettes de bouse qui s\u00e9chaient, les buffles et l&rsquo;immense pont. Rien n&rsquo;\u00e9tait install\u00e9 pour nous. Rien n&rsquo;\u00e9tait spectaculaire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et pourtant, cette sc\u00e8ne est rest\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous \u00e9tions arriv\u00e9s \u00e0 Allahabad par ses fleuves plut\u00f4t que par ses monuments. <br>Apr\u00e8s le tumulte de Triveni Sangam, nous d\u00e9couvrions maintenant une autre vie au bord de l&rsquo;eau, plus quotidienne, faite de travail, d&rsquo;animaux, de gestes familiaux et de rencontres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et je n&rsquo;en avais pas encore termin\u00e9 avec ces rives. Le lendemain matin, je retournerais vers ce pont que la brume allait compl\u00e8tement transformer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Allahabad \u2014 Derri\u00e8re le fleuve<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Apr\u00e8s les rives de la Yamuna, Allahabad nous a happ\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">J&rsquo;avais d&rsquo;abord d\u00e9couvert la ville depuis son fleuve, dans cette lumi\u00e8re un peu voil\u00e9e qui adoucissait tout : les buffles dans l&rsquo;eau, les silhouettes sous les ponts, les femmes travaillant sur les berges, les couleurs peintes sur les \u00e9normes piliers de b\u00e9ton. Puis nous avons quitt\u00e9 l&rsquo;eau pour entrer v\u00e9ritablement dans la ville. Et l\u00e0, le d\u00e9cor a chang\u00e9 d&rsquo;un seul coup.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Allahabad \u00e9tait bruyante, dense, encombr\u00e9e, pleine de cette agitation indienne que j&rsquo;aime tant. Des rickshaws se faufilaient partout, les motos se glissaient dans des espaces improbables, les klaxons se r\u00e9pondaient et les march\u00e9s d\u00e9bordaient largement des trottoirs. Il suffisait de marcher pour que les sc\u00e8nes viennent \u00e0 nous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dans les rues commer\u00e7antes, les \u00e9tals se succ\u00e9daient, les \u00e9toffes formaient des taches de couleurs, les vendeurs interpellaient les passants et, comme toujours en Inde, je finissais par oublier o\u00f9 nous allions. <br>Je regardais les visages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-24' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-portraits-2022-27112022-cd-3724\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-portraits-2022-27112022-CD-3724-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-3665\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-portraits-27112022-CD-3665-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-3651\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-portraits-27112022-CD-3651-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-26112022-cd-3374\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-26112022 CD 3374-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-26112022-cd-3402\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-26112022 CD 3402-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-26112022-cd-3410\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-26112022 CD 3410-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-26112022-cd-3423\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-26112022 CD 3423-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-35651\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022-CD-35651-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C&rsquo;est dans l&rsquo;un de ces march\u00e9s que trois femmes m&rsquo;ont arr\u00eat\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pas parce qu&rsquo;elles cherchaient \u00e0 attirer mon attention. Justement, peut-\u00eatre, parce qu&rsquo;elles ne le faisaient pas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Leurs visages portaient des diff\u00e9rences que mon regard d&rsquo;Occidentale ne savait pas encore tr\u00e8s bien comment aborder. <br>L&rsquo;une avait la peau profond\u00e9ment marqu\u00e9e par une d\u00e9pigmentation, une autre semblait presque aveugle. <br>Je les trouvais belles, terriblement photog\u00e9niques, mais je n&rsquo;osais pas lever mon appareil. <br>J&rsquo;avais peur que mon regard puisse devenir indiscret, ou pire, blessant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">L&rsquo;homme qui les accompagnait a compris mon h\u00e9sitation.<br>Et c&rsquo;est lui qui m&rsquo;a encourag\u00e9e \u00e0 les photographier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Alors je l&rsquo;ai fait.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Elles ne se sont ni cach\u00e9es ni d\u00e9tourn\u00e9es. Elles ont simplement regard\u00e9 mon objectif et m&rsquo;ont offert leurs visages tels qu&rsquo;ils \u00e9taient. <br>Sans g\u00eane. <br>Sans cette diff\u00e9rence que, finalement, c&rsquo;\u00e9tait moi qui \u00e9tais en train d&rsquo;y mettre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ces trois portraits sont devenus un triptyque auquel j&rsquo;ai donn\u00e9 un titre qui ne pouvait pas \u00eatre diff\u00e9rent :<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00ab Parce que toutes les femmes sont belles !!! \u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-Portrait%20Inde-271022%20CD%202670-71-73-2048x1153.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6696\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cette rencontre a laiss\u00e9 une trace bien plus profonde qu&rsquo;une s\u00e9rie de photographies. Elle m&rsquo;a appris quelque chose sur mon propre regard. \u00c0 vouloir parfois \u00eatre trop pudique, trop respectueuse, on finit par d\u00e9tourner les yeux de ceux que l&rsquo;on voudrait justement regarder comme les autres. Apr\u00e8s elles, je ne l&rsquo;ai plus fait de la m\u00eame mani\u00e8re.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et Allahabad n&rsquo;avait pas fini de nous surprendre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Lorsque nous sommes rentr\u00e9s \u00e0 l&rsquo;h\u00f4tel, quelque chose se pr\u00e9parait. Il y avait de l&rsquo;agitation, des all\u00e9es et venues, des d\u00e9corations, des femmes merveilleusement habill\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Un mariage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous n&rsquo;avions \u00e9videmment rien \u00e0 y faire.<br>Et nous avons \u00e9t\u00e9 invit\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C&rsquo;est exactement le genre de phrase qui r\u00e9sume une partie de mes voyages en Inde : arriver quelque part par hasard et, quelques heures plus tard, se retrouver au milieu d&rsquo;une histoire qui n&rsquo;\u00e9tait absolument pas la n\u00f4tre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il fallait tout de m\u00eame \u00eatre \u00e0 la hauteur de l&rsquo;invitation. Nous sommes donc repartis en ville chercher de quoi nous habiller pour la f\u00eate. <br>Pour moi, ce serait un sari.<br>Mais poss\u00e9der un sari et savoir le porter sont deux choses tr\u00e8s diff\u00e9rentes.<br>La solution est venue frapper directement \u00e0 la porte de ma chambre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La s\u0153ur de la mari\u00e9e est entr\u00e9e, accompagn\u00e9e de plusieurs femmes de la famille. <br>Et soudain, ma chambre d&rsquo;h\u00f4tel est devenue une petite pi\u00e8ce r\u00e9serv\u00e9e aux femmes. <br>Elles ont d\u00e9pli\u00e9 le tissu, l&rsquo;ont ajust\u00e9 autour de moi, arrang\u00e9 les plis, corrig\u00e9 ce qui devait l&rsquo;\u00eatre. <br>Elles m&rsquo;ont maquill\u00e9e et m&rsquo;ont offert les bracelets que portent les femmes pour la c\u00e9r\u00e9monie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je ne ma\u00eetrisais plus grand-chose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et c&rsquo;\u00e9tait merveilleux.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je me souviens surtout de cette proximit\u00e9 n\u00e9e en quelques minutes. Nous ne parlions pas forc\u00e9ment la m\u00eame langue, nous nous connaissions \u00e0 peine, et pourtant elles \u00e9taient l\u00e0, autour de moi, \u00e0 m&rsquo;habiller comme si ma pr\u00e9sence parmi elles allait de soi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Puis nous sommes descendus rejoindre la f\u00eate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il y avait les lumi\u00e8res, les couleurs, les bijoux, les saris, la musique, les familles r\u00e9unies et cette incroyable capacit\u00e9 qu&rsquo;ont les Indiens \u00e0 faire entrer des inconnus dans leur joie. Nous avons photographi\u00e9 le mariage, bien s\u00fbr. <br>Mais cette fois, les images avaient une autre valeur : plus tard, nous les avons envoy\u00e9es \u00e0 la famille.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-25' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-3924\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022 CD 3924-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-3952\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022 CD 3952-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-3967\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022 CD 3967-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-3914\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022 CD 3914-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-4038\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022 CD 4038-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-4006\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022 CD 4006-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-3988\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022 CD 3988-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-4024\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022 CD 4024-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-4047\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022 CD 4047-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-4098\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022 CD 4098-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-27112022-cd-4073\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-27112022 CD 4073-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-4105\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-27112022 CD 4105-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous \u00e9tions venus \u00e0 Allahabad pour d\u00e9couvrir une ville et son fleuve. Nous en repartions avec beaucoup plus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je revois les buffles dans la Yamuna, le pont disparaissant presque dans la brume, les immenses piliers peints, les femmes travaillant sur les berges. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-26' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-27112022-cd-3785\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-27112022-CD-3785-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-portraits-27112022-cd-3590\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-portraits-27112022-CD-3590-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-27112022-cd-3617\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-27112022-CD-3617-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-27112022-cd-3819\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-27112022-CD-3819-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>Je revois le visage de cette grand-m\u00e8re massant son petit-enfant, les trois femmes du march\u00e9 face \u00e0 mon objectif. <br>Et puis cette chambre d&rsquo;h\u00f4tel envahie de saris, de bracelets et de mains occup\u00e9es \u00e0 transformer pour quelques heures une voyageuse de passage en invit\u00e9e d&rsquo;un mariage indien.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Allahabad avait commenc\u00e9 au bord de l&rsquo;eau. Elle s&rsquo;achevait au milieu des visages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-27' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2022-27112022-cd-3674\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2022-27112022 CD 3674-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2022-27112022-cd-3671\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2022-27112022 CD 3671-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2022-27112022-cd-3670\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2022-27112022 CD 3670-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-27112022-cd-3848\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-27112022 CD 3848-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-portrait-divers\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Portrait-Divers--150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le lendemain, Pal a repris sa place au volant, nos sacs ont retrouv\u00e9 le coffre et nous avons quitt\u00e9 cette ville dans laquelle, finalement, presque rien ne s&rsquo;\u00e9tait pass\u00e9 comme pr\u00e9vu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La route de Chitrakoot nous attendait.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et apr\u00e8s le tumulte d&rsquo;Allahabad, nous allions peu \u00e0 peu glisser vers une autre Inde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Chitrakoot et Jabalpur \u2014 Toujours l&rsquo;eau<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 Chitrakoot, le voyage retrouvait son fil : l&rsquo;eau, encore et toujours. Mais ici, elle avait quelque chose de plus paisible. <br>Autour de Ramghat, les petits bateaux aux toits couverts de tissus color\u00e9s attendaient leurs passagers, serr\u00e9s les uns contre les autres. <br>Les p\u00e8lerins descendaient les marches, les sadhus se m\u00ealaient \u00e0 la foule et, sur les berges, la vie suivait tranquillement le rythme de la Mandakini.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-28' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-28112022-cd-42932\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-28112022 CD 42932-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-28112022-cd-4223\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-28112022 CD 4223-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-28112022-cd-4151-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-28112022 CD 4151-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-28112022-cd-4163\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-28112022 CD 4163-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-28112022-cd-4175-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-28112022 CD 4175-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-28112022-cd-4183-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-28112022 CD 4183-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-28112022-cd-4207\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-28112022 CD 4207-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-28112022-cd-4270\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-28112022 CD 4270-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-28112022-cd-4238\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-28112022-CD-4238-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portrait-animaux-herbivores-28112022-cd-4288\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portrait-animaux-herbivores-28112022-CD-4288-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portrait-divers-28112022-cd-4180\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portrait-divers-28112022-CD-4180-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portrait-28112022-cd-4320\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portrait-28112022-CD-4320-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">J&rsquo;ai beaucoup aim\u00e9 cette atmosph\u00e8re. <br>Chitrakoot ne cherchait pas \u00e0 impressionner. Il suffisait de regarder : les femmes dans leurs v\u00eatements \u00e9clatants devant les maisons bleues, les hommes en orange install\u00e9s au bord de l&rsquo;eau, les embarcations d\u00e9cor\u00e9es de guirlandes, les reflets qui m\u00e9langeaient toutes ces couleurs. <br>Et au-dessus de cette agitation tranquille, les grandes figures des dieux rappelaient que nous \u00e9tions aussi dans une ville profond\u00e9ment li\u00e9e aux r\u00e9cits du <em>Ramayana<\/em>. Rama, l&rsquo;une des grandes figures de Chitrakoot, mais aussi Hanuman, reconnaissable \u00e0 son visage de singe et \u00e0 sa poitrine qu&rsquo;il ouvre pour r\u00e9v\u00e9ler Rama et Sita, et Kali, beaucoup plus saisissante avec ses multiples bras et sa langue tir\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-29' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-29112022-cd-4441\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-29112022 CD 4441-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-29112022-cd-4442\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-29112022 CD 4442-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-29112022-cd-4443\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-29112022 CD 4443-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-29112022-cd-4444\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-29112022 CD 4444-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-28112022-cd-43122\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-28112022-CD-43122-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-28112022-cd-4283\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-28112022 CD 4283-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Puis nous avons repris la route vers Jabalpur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et cette route-l\u00e0 m\u00e9ritait presque un r\u00e9cit \u00e0 elle seule.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Elle traversait une Inde beaucoup moins spectaculaire sur le papier, mais exactement celle que j&rsquo;aime regarder d\u00e9filer derri\u00e8re la vitre. <br>Des villages, des maisons de briques rafistol\u00e9es, des femmes dans les cours, des motos, des v\u00e9los, et puis ces passages \u00e0 niveau capables de mettre tout le monde \u00e0 l&rsquo;arr\u00eat pendant un temps qui para\u00eet interminable. <br>La barri\u00e8re descend et imm\u00e9diatement se forme un petit monde provisoire : motos en premi\u00e8re ligne, v\u00e9los, voitures, bus, chacun gagnant quelques centim\u00e8tres comme si cela pouvait faire arriver le train plus vite. <br>Puis la barri\u00e8re se rel\u00e8ve et tout ce petit monde repart en m\u00eame temps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-30' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-29112022-cd-4369\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-29112022 CD 4369-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-29112022-cd-4426\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-29112022 CD 4426-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-28112022-cd-4112-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-28112022 CD 4112-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au bord de cette m\u00eame route, nous nous sommes arr\u00eat\u00e9s devant un homme qui fabriquait des briques. <br>Accroupi dans la terre, il remplissait son moule, tassait la mati\u00e8re avec ses mains, d\u00e9moulait chaque brique puis l&rsquo;alignait avec les pr\u00e9c\u00e9dentes pour la laisser s\u00e9cher. <br>Des gestes simples, r\u00e9p\u00e9t\u00e9s des centaines de fois. Je l&rsquo;ai photographi\u00e9 en entier, puis ses mains. Ce sont souvent elles qui racontent le mieux le travail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et toujours, au fil des kilom\u00e8tres, le sacr\u00e9 restait pr\u00e9sent. <br>Une silhouette gigantesque surgissait parfois au-dessus des arbres ou des toits, une couleur \u00e9clatante apparaissait au d\u00e9tour d&rsquo;un village. <br>En Inde, les dieux font partie du paysage autant que les hommes, les vaches, les temples et les routes. On passe devant eux presque naturellement, comme s&rsquo;ils veillaient sur le voyage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 l&rsquo;approche de Jabalpur, une curiosit\u00e9 de la nature nous attendait encore : cette \u00e9norme pierre que je croyais simplement \u00ab pench\u00e9e \u00bb et dont j&rsquo;avais oubli\u00e9 le nom. <br>Elle s&rsquo;appelle tout simplement Balancing Rock, le rocher en \u00e9quilibre de Jabalpur, pr\u00e8s de Madan Mahal. <br>Un \u00e9norme bloc volcanique semble pos\u00e9 sur un autre par un point de contact ridiculement petit. <br>Et pourtant il tient, au point d&rsquo;avoir r\u00e9sist\u00e9 \u00e0 un puissant tremblement de terre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-29112022%20CD%204449-Inde-2048x1401.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5499\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Puis nous avons retrouv\u00e9 l&rsquo;eau.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cette fois, c&rsquo;\u00e9tait la Narmada.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 Bhedaghat, elle se faufile entre les c\u00e9l\u00e8bres Marble Rocks, de hautes falaises de marbre qui encadrent le fleuve. <br>Nous les avons parcourues en bateau, lentement, entre ces parois dont la lumi\u00e8re fait varier les nuances. <br>Par endroits, les rochers semblent presque se refermer sur l&rsquo;eau. <br>Des femmes lavaient leurs saris et faisaient leurs ablutions ; plus loin, des jeunes plongeaient et riaient dans une eau qui paraissait soudain bien plus claire et fra\u00eeche que celles rencontr\u00e9es jusque-l\u00e0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-31' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-29112022-cd-4482\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-29112022 CD 4482-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-29112022-cd-4458\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-29112022 CD 4458-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-29112022-cd-4483\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-29112022 CD 4483-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-29112022-cd-4497\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-29112022 CD 4497-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-29112022-cd-4456-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-29112022 CD 4456-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-29112022-cd-44931\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-29112022 CD 44931-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et quelques kilom\u00e8tres plus loin, la m\u00eame Narmada change compl\u00e8tement de caract\u00e8re.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Aux chutes de Dhuandhar, plus question de silence. Le fleuve se resserre et bascule brutalement dans la roche. L&rsquo;eau \u00e9clate, remonte en fines gouttelettes et forme cette brume qui a donn\u00e9 son nom aux chutes : <em>Dhuandhar<\/em>, la \u00ab cascade de fum\u00e9e \u00bb. Le grondement de l&rsquo;eau accompagne le spectacle bien avant qu&rsquo;on ne l&rsquo;ait enti\u00e8rement devant les yeux.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-32' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2022-22112022-cd-4537\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2022-22112022-CD-4537-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-29112022-cd-4534\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-29112022-CD-4534-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Depuis le d\u00e9but de ce voyage, nous avions suivi les fleuves presque sans nous en rendre compte : le Gange, la Gomti, la Yamuna, la Mandakini\u2026 et maintenant la Narmada. <br>Ils n&rsquo;avaient jamais le m\u00eame visage. <br>Tant\u00f4t sacr\u00e9s, tant\u00f4t domestiques, parfois presque immobiles, ailleurs furieux, ils \u00e9taient des lieux de pri\u00e8res, de travail, de toilette, de jeux, de rencontres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Avant de quitter Jabalpur, il suffisait encore une fois de sortir de l\u2019h\u00f4tel pour retrouver cette Inde qu<br>i me retient toujours un peu plus longtemps que pr\u00e9vu. <br>\u00c0 quelques pas de l\u2019eau, la vie s\u2019\u00e9tait install\u00e9e dehors, simplement, sans d\u00e9cor et sans mise en sc\u00e8ne. <br>On travaillait, on vendait quelques l\u00e9gumes, on cousait au bord de la rue, on discutait pr\u00e8s d\u2019une moto charg\u00e9e jusqu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019impossible. <br>Des femmes \u00e2g\u00e9es passaient lentement, appuy\u00e9es sur leur b\u00e2ton, tandis que d\u2019autres silhouettes apparaissaient dans l\u2019encadrement \u00e9clatant d\u2019une maison bleue. <br>Les vaches, elles, semblaient avoir depuis longtemps choisi leur place et dormaient au milieu de tout cela avec une tranquillit\u00e9 souveraine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-33' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-30112022-cd-4564-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-30112022 CD 4564-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-30112022-cd-4570\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-30112022 CD 4570-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-30112022-cd-4605\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-30112022 CD 4605-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-30112022-cd-4606\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-30112022 CD 4606-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-30112022-cd-46082\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-30112022 CD 46082-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-30112022-cd-4611\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-30112022 CD 4611-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-30112022-cd-4614\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-30112022 CD 4614-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-30112022-cd-4641\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-30112022 CD 4641-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-30112022-cd-4676\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-30112022 CD 4676-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-30112022-cd-4671\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-30112022 CD 4671-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-30112022-cd-4674\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-30112022 CD 4674-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-30112022-cd-4642\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-30112022 CD 4642-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-30112022-cd-4699-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-30112022 CD 4699-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-20022023-cd-4720\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-20022023 CD 4720-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ce sont souvent ces moments-l\u00e0 que je pr\u00e9f\u00e8re. <br>Ceux qui n\u2019\u00e9taient inscrits sur aucun programme et pour lesquels nous n\u2019avions rien \u00e0 chercher. <br>Quelques m\u00e8tres parcourus au hasard avant de reprendre la route, et toute une petite chronique de la vie ordinaire se d\u00e9roulait devant nous. <br>Jabalpur nous offrait ainsi ses derni\u00e8res images, non pas dans un monument, mais dehors, l\u00e0 o\u00f9 l\u2019Inde continue de vivre pendant que le voyageur, lui, croit d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00eatre parti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je croyais avoir imagin\u00e9 un voyage le long des fleuves. Je commen\u00e7ais \u00e0 comprendre que c&rsquo;\u00e9taient eux qui nous conduisaient.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Orchha \u2014 Retrouver mon arbre et mon s\u00e2dhu<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Puis il y eut Orchha.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ma deuxi\u00e8me visite, et d\u00e9j\u00e0 ce sentiment \u00e9trange de ne plus tout \u00e0 fait arriver quelque part, mais d\u2019y revenir. <br>Orchha faisait partie de ces endroits que j\u2019avais quitt\u00e9s en sachant que j\u2019aurais envie de les retrouver.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 Orchha, la vie semble se d\u00e9rouler sans jamais chercher \u00e0 attirer le regard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">&nbsp;Il suffit de marcher, de quitter les monuments et de suivre les chemins, les berges ou les rues pour retrouver cette Inde quotidienne que j\u2019aime tant.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Les journ\u00e9es commencent dans la brume et la lumi\u00e8re douce, puis la ville s\u2019anime lentement : on travaille, on transporte, on attend, on prie, on bavarde, on s\u2019occupe des siens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">&nbsp;Les hommes et les animaux partagent les m\u00eames espaces, les gestes ordinaires deviennent parfois de petites sc\u00e8nes suspendues, et les silhouettes crois\u00e9es racontent \u00e0 elles seules bien davantage qu\u2019un monument.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">&nbsp;Orchha poss\u00e8de cette douceur particuli\u00e8re : derri\u00e8re la grandeur de ses palais et de ses temples, elle reste un lieu profond\u00e9ment vivant, simple et humain, o\u00f9 il suffit finalement de regarder autour de soi.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-34' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-02122022-cd-4899-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-02122022 CD 4899-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-02122022-cd-4904-inde-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-02122022 CD 4904-Inde-2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-02122022-cd-4908-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-02122022 CD 4908-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-02122022-cd-5156\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-02122022 CD 5156-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-02122022-cd-5182\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-02122022 CD 5182-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-02122022-cd-5192\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-02122022 CD 5192-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2022-02122022-cd-5210-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2022-02122022 CD 5210-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2022-02122022-cd-5218\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2022-02122022 CD 5218-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portrait-divers-02122022-cd-5241\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portrait-divers-02122022-CD-5241-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-03122022-cd-5468\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-03122022 CD 5468-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-inde-2022-divers-03122022-cd-5543\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-Inde-2022-divers-03122022 CD 5543-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-03122022-cd-53223\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-03122022 CD 53223-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ici, on peut encore ralentir. <br>Les c\u00e9notaphes se d\u00e9coupent au bord de la Betwa, la rivi\u00e8re contourne les rochers, les arbres prennent toute la place et les singes ne sont jamais tr\u00e8s loin. <br>Cette ann\u00e9e-l\u00e0, ils m\u2019ont offert de magnifiques sc\u00e8nes pr\u00e8s de la r\u00e9serve, parfois \u00e9clair\u00e9s par une simple trou\u00e9e de lumi\u00e8re sur des fonds de for\u00eat presque noirs. <br>J\u2019y ai aussi retrouv\u00e9 les vautours, immenses silhouettes pos\u00e9es sur les vieilles pierres, comme s\u2019ils faisaient eux aussi partie du d\u00e9cor depuis toujours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-35' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-singes-01122022-cd-4841-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Singes-01122022 CD 4841-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-singes-01122022-cd-4851-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Singes-01122022 CD 4851-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-singes-01122022-cd-4845-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Singes-01122022 CD 4845-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-singes-01122022-cd-4847-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Singes-01122022 CD 4847-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-01122022-cd-4859\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-01122022-CD-4859-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-01122022-cd-4864-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-01122022-CD-4864-2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-02122022-cd-5271\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-02122022 CD 5271-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-02122022-cd-5314\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-02122022 CD 5314-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-01122022-cd-4871\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-01122022 CD 4871-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-02122022-cd-4894-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-02122022 CD 4894-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-02122022-cd-5094-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-02122022 CD 5094-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-oiseaux-03122022-cd-5403-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Oiseaux-03122022 CD 5403-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-oiseaux-02122022-cd-4979-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Oiseaux-02122022 CD 4979-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-oiseaux-02122022-cd-4989-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Oiseaux-02122022 CD 4989-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-oiseaux-02122022-cd-4968-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Oiseaux-02122022 CD 4968-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-oiseaux-02122022-cd-4965-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Oiseaux-02122022 CD 4965-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-oiseaux-02122022-cd-4959-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Oiseaux-02122022 CD 4959-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-grands-oiseaux-03122022-cd-5451\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-grands-oiseaux-03122022 CD 5451-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et puis il y avait mon baobab. Cet arbre extraordinaire, presque irr\u00e9el au milieu de l\u2019Inde, que j\u2019avais d\u00e9j\u00e0 photographi\u00e9 et que je tenais absolument \u00e0 revoir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-36' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-02122022-cd-5103-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-02122022 CD 5103-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-02122022-cd-5115-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-02122022 CD 5115-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-02122022-cd-5108\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-02122022 CD 5108-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-03122022-cd-5603\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-03122022 CD 5603-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-03122022-cd-5645\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-03122022 CD 5645-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-03122022-cd-5653\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-03122022-CD-5653-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mais surtout, j\u2019ai retrouv\u00e9 mon s\u00e2dhu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En 2017, je l\u2019avais d\u2019abord aper\u00e7u marchant sur le petit pont en direction de la rivi\u00e8re. Un peu plus tard, je l\u2019avais retrouv\u00e9 assis sur un rocher, en m\u00e9ditation. <br>Deux images qui \u00e9taient rest\u00e9es li\u00e9es dans ma m\u00e9moire : le chemin, puis le silence. <br>En 2022, je ne suis plus rest\u00e9e \u00e0 distance. Un matin, tr\u00e8s t\u00f4t, je suis sortie de l\u2019h\u00f4tel et je suis all\u00e9e vers lui. Cette fois, il y eut un v\u00e9ritable contact et j&rsquo;ai pu photographier de pr\u00e8s ce visage extraordinaire, marqu\u00e9 de couleurs et de temps. Il tenait contre lui un minuscule chiot. Le s\u00e2dhu aper\u00e7u cinq ans auparavant dans le paysage d\u2019Orchha devenait enfin une rencontre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-37' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-01032022-cd-5251\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-01032022 CD 5251-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-02122022-cd-5252\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-02122022 CD 5252-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/portrait-inde-02122022-cd-5255\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Portrait Inde-02122022 CD 5255-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-02122022-cd-5253\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-02122022 CD 5253-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-02122022-cd-5263\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-02122022 CD 5263-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-02122022-cd-5270\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-02122022 CD 5270-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Orchha nous r\u00e9servait aussi quelques impr\u00e9vus. Nous devions loger ailleurs, mais un mariage avait boulevers\u00e9 les r\u00e9servations et nous avons \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9plac\u00e9s dans un autre h\u00f4tel. Une contrari\u00e9t\u00e9 qui s&rsquo;est transform\u00e9e en cadeau : l&rsquo;endroit \u00e9tait superbe. Et, comme un clin d&rsquo;\u0153il, un autre mariage s&rsquo;y pr\u00e9parait. Les fa\u00e7ades jaunes, les tentures orange, rouges et or, les lumi\u00e8res et leurs reflets dans la piscine composaient un d\u00e9cor flamboyant. M\u00eame deux invit\u00e9es crois\u00e9es l\u00e0 semblaient s&rsquo;\u00eatre accord\u00e9es aux couleurs du lieu. Impossible de ne pas sortir l&rsquo;appareil. Ce d\u00e9placement impr\u00e9vu nous offrait finalement l&rsquo;un de ces moments magiques que l&rsquo;on ne peut justement pas pr\u00e9voir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-38' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-03122022-cd-5674\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-03122022 CD 5674-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-03122022-cd-5676\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-03122022 CD 5676-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-04122022-cd-5679\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-04122022 CD 5679-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-04122022-cd-5693\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-04122022 CD 5693-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-04122022-cd-5699\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-04122022 CD 5699-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-04122022-cd-5709\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-04122022 CD 5709-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-04122022-cd-5712\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-04122022 CD 5712-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-04122022-cd-5716\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-04122022 CD 5716-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et Orchha avait gard\u00e9 une derni\u00e8re surprise pour notre d\u00e9part.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 la sortie de la ville, j&rsquo;ai aper\u00e7u un autre baobab centenaire. <br>\u00c9videmment, il fallait s&rsquo;arr\u00eater. <br>Une \u00e9cole se trouvait juste \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 et, lorsque je me suis approch\u00e9e de l&rsquo;arbre avec mon appareil, les enfants ont commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 sortir en courant. <br>En quelques instants, ils \u00e9taient autour de nous, rieurs, agit\u00e9s, heureux de poser, transformant une simple halte devant un arbre en une joyeuse s\u00e9ance photo improvis\u00e9e. <br>Les portraits se sont succ\u00e9d\u00e9, les bras se sont lev\u00e9s devant l&rsquo;objectif, et les bonbons ont circul\u00e9 g\u00e9n\u00e9reusement avant que nous reprenions la route.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ainsi s&rsquo;est termin\u00e9 notre passage \u00e0 Orchha : un autre baobab, une nu\u00e9e d&rsquo;enfants et des sourires. <br>Finalement, tout ce que j&rsquo;aime dans cette ville tient peut-\u00eatre l\u00e0. <br>Je viens y retrouver ce que je connais, et elle trouve toujours le moyen de m&rsquo;offrir ce que je n&rsquo;avais pas pr\u00e9vu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-39' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-04122022-cd-5744-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-04122022 CD 5744-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-divers-04122022-cd-5728\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-divers-04122022-CD-5728-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-04122022-cd-5759-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-04122022 CD 5759-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-divers-04122022-cd-5730-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-divers-04122022-CD-5730-2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-04122022-cd-5760\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-04122022 CD 5760-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-divers-04122022-cd-5730\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-divers-04122022-CD-5730-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pourtant, Orchha changeait d\u00e9j\u00e0. Un grand h\u00f4tel \u00e9tait en construction et un \u00e9norme pont avait remplac\u00e9 la petite jet\u00e9e que j&rsquo;avais connue. <br>Je me demandais ce qu&rsquo;il adviendrait de cette ville que j&rsquo;aimais justement pour sa tranquillit\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Car c&rsquo;est probablement pour cela que j&rsquo;aime autant revenir quelque part : la premi\u00e8re fois, on d\u00e9couvre un lieu ; les suivantes, on retrouve des histoires\u2026 et parfois, de nouvelles viennent s&rsquo;y ajouter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Sur la route de Gwalior \u2014 le sucre dans la vapeur<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Avant Gwalior, il y a ces endroits que l\u2019on ne trouverait probablement jamais seule. <br>Des lieux qui, vus depuis la route, ne sont qu\u2019un d\u00e9tour dans la poussi\u00e8re et qui deviennent pourtant l\u2019un des souvenirs les plus forts du voyage. <br>Celui-ci en fait partie : une fabrique artisanale de jaggery, ce sucre brut indien obtenu \u00e0 partir du jus de canne \u00e0 sucre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">On la rep\u00e8re presque \u00e0 la fum\u00e9e noire. <br>Sous de grandes b\u00e2ches tendues sur des bambous, d\u2019immenses cuves chauffent \u00e0 ciel ouvert. Partout, la vapeur s\u2019\u00e9l\u00e8ve, enveloppe les hommes, accroche la lumi\u00e8re et transforme ce lieu de travail rudimentaire en d\u00e9cor presque irr\u00e9el. <br>Le jus de canne y est cuit pendant des heures, brass\u00e9 sans rel\u00e2che avec de longues perches et de larges louches. <br>Peu \u00e0 peu, le liquide clair s\u2019\u00e9paissit, prend cette couleur de miel br\u00fbl\u00e9, puis devient une masse dense que l\u2019on r\u00e9cup\u00e8re encore br\u00fblante avant de la laisser refroidir et se solidifier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Tout est immense : les bassins, les gestes, les outils. Et tout est physique. Les hommes travaillent au milieu de la chaleur et de la fum\u00e9e, pench\u00e9s au-dessus des cuves, soulevant cette mati\u00e8re lourde et collante avec une pr\u00e9cision acquise par l&rsquo;habitude. Autour d&rsquo;eux s&rsquo;entassent bidons m\u00e9talliques, sacs, tissus et morceaux de jaggery d\u00e9j\u00e0 refroidis. Rien n&rsquo;est vraiment propre au sens o\u00f9 nous l&rsquo;entendrions chez nous, rien n&rsquo;est aseptis\u00e9, et pourtant le travail suit son rythme et sa logique depuis des g\u00e9n\u00e9rations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C&rsquo;est aussi cela que j&rsquo;aime trouver sur les routes indiennes : des gestes ordinaires qui deviennent extraordinaires d\u00e8s que l&rsquo;on prend le temps de s&rsquo;arr\u00eater. <br>Ici, je pourrais photographier pendant des heures. <br>Les silhouettes disparaissent puis r\u00e9apparaissent dans la vapeur, les grandes perches tracent des diagonales dans l&rsquo;image, la lumi\u00e8re traverse la fum\u00e9e et le sucre incandescent coule comme un long ruban d&rsquo;or.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-40' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-04122022-cd-5783\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-04122022 CD 5783-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-04122022-cd-5785-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-04122022 CD 5785-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-04122022-cd-5786-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-04122022 CD 5786-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-04122022-cd-5802\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-04122022 CD 5802-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-04122022-cd-5812\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-04122022 CD 5812-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-04122022-cd-5835-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-04122022 CD 5835-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-04122022-cd-5837-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-04122022 CD 5837-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-04122022-cd-5844-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-04122022 CD 5844-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-04122022-cd-5855-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-04122022 CD 5855-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et puis, au milieu de tout cela, il y a un enfant magnifique rencontr\u00e9 \u00e0 notre sortie, une lourde marmite d\u2019eau pos\u00e9e sur la t\u00eate, les mains lev\u00e9es pour la maintenir en \u00e9quilibre. Il regarde l&rsquo;objectif avec ce petit sourire tranquille qui semble presque se moquer de l&rsquo;effort. <br>Une autre image de l&rsquo;Inde, \u00e0 quelques m\u00e8tres seulement des chaudrons et de leur vacarme. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-04122022%20CD%205862-2048x1463.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6615\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et \u00e0 quelques pas de plus de la fabrique , dans un champ voisin, il y eut ce visage. <br>Cette petite fille que je n\u2019oublierai jamais, un bras lev\u00e9 derri\u00e8re elle, et surtout ces yeux d\u2019un vert presque irr\u00e9el qui m\u2019ont imm\u00e9diatement arr\u00eat\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Elle ne souriait pas vraiment. <br>Elle me regardait avec cette gravit\u00e9 tranquille que les enfants ont parfois devant un inconnu et son appareil photo. <br>Son visage \u00e9tait poussi\u00e9reux, ses cheveux en bataille, son ch\u00e2le vert enveloppait ses \u00e9paules, et puis il y avait ce regard, incroyablement lumineux, pos\u00e9 droit sur moi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-41' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2022-06122022-cd-6488\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2022-06122022 CD 6488-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-06122022-cd-6461\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-06122022 CD 6461-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au milieu de cette journ\u00e9e remplie de fum\u00e9e, de chaleur, de cuves br\u00fblantes et d\u2019hommes au travail, cette rencontre n\u2019a dur\u00e9 que quelques instants. Mais certains regards prennent beaucoup plus de place dans la m\u00e9moire que le temps qu\u2019ils nous ont accord\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et bien s\u00fbr, mon \u00e9l\u00e9phant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pas celui que l&rsquo;on vient chercher dans un parc ou dans un sanctuaire. Celui qui surgit sur la route, au milieu de la circulation et des chargements improbables, comme si sa pr\u00e9sence ici \u00e9tait la chose la plus naturelle du monde. Pour moi qui ne r\u00e9siste jamais longtemps \u00e0 ces g\u00e9ants, il suffit qu&rsquo;une trompe apparaisse quelque part pour que le reste cesse momentan\u00e9ment d&rsquo;exister.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sur les routes indiennes, il y a toujours quelque chose qui oblige \u00e0 regarder une seconde fois. <br>Un enfant, un homme dans la vapeur, un camion tellement charg\u00e9 qu&rsquo;on se demande par quel miracle il roule encore\u2026 ou un \u00e9l\u00e9phant qui transforme un simple trajet vers Gwalior en une nouvelle histoire \u00e0 raconter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-42' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-04122022-cd-5772-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-04122022 CD 5772-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-04122022-cd-5806-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-04122022 CD 5806-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Gwalior \u2014 La ville derri\u00e8re la forteresse<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 Gwalior, je n\u2019avais aucune intention de red\u00e9couvrir le fort. <br>Je le connaissais d\u00e9j\u00e0 tr\u00e8s bien et, ce matin-l\u00e0, ce n\u2019\u00e9tait pas vraiment lui que j\u2019\u00e9tais venue chercher. <br>J\u2019y \u00e9tais retourn\u00e9e pour les gens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La forteresse pouvait bien d\u00e9rouler ses murailles, ses palais et ses fa\u00e7ades couvertes de c\u00e9ramiques bleues : mon regard partait ailleurs. <br>Vers ceux qui traversaient les cours, ceux qui s\u2019arr\u00eataient, ceux qui acceptaient une photo ou qui, parfois, la r\u00e9clamaient presque. <br>Des jeunes femmes apparaissaient dans l\u2019encadrement sombre d\u2019une porte, des visiteurs se pr\u00eataient au jeu, un homme en violet prenait des poses improbables avec une assurance r\u00e9jouissante. <br>Le monument devenait un d\u00e9cor, magnifique certes, mais un d\u00e9cor derri\u00e8re lequel se jouait ce qui m\u2019int\u00e9ressait vraiment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-43' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-04122022-cd-5875\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-04122022 CD 5875-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-04122022-cd-5878-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-04122022 CD 5878-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-04122022-cd-5884\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-04122022 CD 5884-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C\u2019est aussi cela, revenir dans un endroit que l\u2019on conna\u00eet. <br>On n\u2019a plus cette petite obligation int\u00e9rieure de tout voir, de suivre le parcours, de regarder ce que l\u2019on est cens\u00e9 regarder. <br>On peut enfin perdre son temps. <br>Observer un visage plut\u00f4t qu\u2019une fa\u00e7ade, attendre qu\u2019une personne entre dans la lumi\u00e8re, sourire \u00e0 quelqu\u2019un et voir ce sourire revenir. <br>Ce matin-l\u00e0, mon Gwalior \u00e9tait humain bien avant d\u2019\u00eatre monumental.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-44' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-04122022-cd-5907\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-04122022 CD 5907-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-04122022-cd-5933\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-04122022 CD 5933-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-04122022-cd-5881\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-04122022 CD 5881-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">L\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, je suis partie dans les rues. Et l\u00e0 encore, c\u2019est la vie ordinaire qui m\u2019attirait : un chai fumant, des marchands derri\u00e8re leurs \u00e9tals, des l\u00e9gumes empil\u00e9s sur les charrettes, un cheval arr\u00eat\u00e9 au bord de la route, des hommes qui travaillent ou discutent. <br>Cette Inde-l\u00e0 ne demande aucun programme. Il suffit de marcher et de regarder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-45' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-grands-oiseaux-05122022-cd-6011-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Grands Oiseaux-05122022 CD 6011-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-marches-05122022-cd-6189\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-march\u00e9s-05122022 CD 6189-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-05122022-cd-6030-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-05122022 CD 6030-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-marches-05122022-cd-6051\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-march\u00e9s-05122022 CD 6051-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-marches-05122022-cd-6063\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-march\u00e9s-05122022 CD 6063-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-marches-05122022-cd-6117\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-march\u00e9s-05122022 CD 6117-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-05122022-cd-61512\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-05122022 CD 61512-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-05122022-cd-6152\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-05122022 CD 6152-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-marches-05122022-cd-6196\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-march\u00e9s-05122022 CD 6196-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Puis le d\u00e9cor a commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 se fissurer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Quelques gravats d\u2019abord. <br>Un mur ab\u00eem\u00e9, des briques amoncel\u00e9es. <br>Rien qui, en Inde, fasse imm\u00e9diatement ralentir le pas. Mais plus nous avancions, plus quelque chose devenait \u00e9trange. <br>Les gravats n\u2019\u00e9taient plus au bord de la rue : ils \u00e9taient la rue. <br>Des fa\u00e7ades enti\u00e8res avaient disparu. <br>Des portes restaient debout sans v\u00e9ritable maison derri\u00e8re elles. <br>Des pi\u00e8ces autrefois int\u00e9rieures \u00e9taient d\u00e9sormais offertes au regard des passants. <br>Ici une fen\u00eatre bleue survivait au milieu d&rsquo;un mur \u00e9ventr\u00e9, l\u00e0 un homme \u00e9tait assis devant des sacs, ailleurs quelqu\u2019un d\u00e9blayait ou r\u00e9cup\u00e9rait ce qui pouvait encore servir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-46' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-05122022-cd-6289\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-05122022 CD 6289-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-05122022-cd-6265\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-05122022 CD 6265-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-05122022-cd-61781\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-05122022 CD 61781-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-inde-chevaux-marwaris-05122022-cd-6159-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Inde-Chevaux-Marwaris-05122022 CD 6159-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-05122022-cd-6380\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-05122022 CD 6380-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">J\u2019ai fini par comprendre que la route devait \u00eatre \u00e9largie et que les bulldozers \u00e9taient pass\u00e9s par l\u00e0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ma premi\u00e8re pens\u00e9e a \u00e9t\u00e9 brutale : on dirait une sc\u00e8ne de guerre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Non pas parce que tout \u00e9tait d\u00e9sert ou abandonn\u00e9. <br>C\u2019\u00e9tait pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment le contraire qui rendait la sc\u00e8ne si d\u00e9routante. <br>Les maisons \u00e9taient \u00e9ventr\u00e9es, mais la vie \u00e9tait toujours l\u00e0. <br>Des familles continuaient d\u2019habiter ce qui restait. <br>Des gens entraient et sortaient de b\u00e2timents dont on voyait d\u00e9sormais l\u2019intimit\u00e9 depuis la chauss\u00e9e. <br>On reconstruisait d\u00e9j\u00e0, avec les moyens disponibles. Des hommes d\u00e9pla\u00e7aient les briques, les empilaient, transportaient des charges impressionnantes sur leur dos. <br>Au milieu de la poussi\u00e8re et des murs ouverts, personne ne semblait attendre que le monde s\u2019arr\u00eate pour remettre le sien debout.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-47' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-05122022-cd-6253-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-05122022 CD 6253-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-05122022-cd-6254-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-05122022 CD 6254-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-05122022-cd-6263-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-05122022 CD 6263-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-05122022-cd-6288-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-05122022 CD 6288-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-05122022-cd-6296-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-05122022 CD 6296-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-05122022-cd-6329-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-05122022 CD 6329-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-05122022-cd-6338-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-05122022 CD 6338-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je suis rest\u00e9e longtemps dans cette rue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ce qui me bouleversait n\u2019\u00e9tait pas seulement la violence du paysage. C\u2019\u00e9tait l\u2019attitude de ceux qui y vivaient. <br>Je m\u2019attendais presque \u00e0 \u00eatre g\u00eanante avec mon appareil photo, \u00e0 sentir qu\u2019il fallait le baisser et passer mon chemin. Pourtant, je n\u2019ai rencontr\u00e9 ni hostilit\u00e9 ni rejet. Les gens venaient vers nous, parlaient, souriaient, acceptaient ma pr\u00e9sence et parfois semblaient simplement contents que quelqu\u2019un s\u2019arr\u00eate l\u00e0, au lieu de traverser rapidement cette rue devenue un chantier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Alors j\u2019ai photographi\u00e9 autrement. Pas les ruines pour les ruines. Les hommes et les femmes au milieu d\u2019elles. Une femme dans l\u2019ouverture bleue de ce qui restait de sa maison. Un homme assis devant une fa\u00e7ade d\u00e9faite. Ceux qui travaillaient parmi les briques. Ceux qui continuaient leur journ\u00e9e dans un endroit qui, quelques semaines ou quelques jours auparavant, devait encore ressembler \u00e0 une rue ordinaire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-48' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-05122022-cd-6388\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-05122022 CD 6388-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-05122022-cd-6380\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-05122022 CD 6380-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-05122022-cd-6359-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-05122022 CD 6359-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-05122022-cd-6368\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-05122022 CD 6368-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-05122022-cd-634-inde21\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-05122022  CD 634-Inde21-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2022-05122022-cd-6399\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2022-05122022 CD 6399-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-05122022-cd-6363\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-05122022 CD 6363-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-05122022-cd-6233-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-05122022 CD 6233-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Au milieu d\u2019elles<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous \u00e9tions presque sur le d\u00e9part lorsque, depuis la voiture, j\u2019ai aper\u00e7u un cort\u00e8ge qui avan\u00e7ait dans la rue. Une masse de jaune, d\u2019orange, de rouge et de quelques verts \u00e9clatants. Des dizaines de femmes marchaient ensemble, portant sur la t\u00eate de grands pots d\u00e9cor\u00e9s de fleurs, de feuilles et surmont\u00e9s d\u2019une noix de coco.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">J\u2019ai demand\u00e9 \u00e0 Pal de s\u2019arr\u00eater et je suis partie en courant pour les rejoindre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je les ai d\u2019abord photographi\u00e9es de loin, fascin\u00e9e par cette foule color\u00e9e qui occupait la rue. Je sais aujourd\u2019hui qu\u2019il s\u2019agissait d\u2019une Kalash Yatra, une procession religieuse hindoue au cours de laquelle les femmes portent sur leur t\u00eate un <em>kalash<\/em>, un vase sacr\u00e9 contenant traditionnellement de l\u2019eau consacr\u00e9e et surmont\u00e9 de feuilles et d\u2019une noix de coco. \u00c0 l\u2019\u00e9poque, je ne savais rien de tout cela. Je voyais seulement cette extraordinaire procession passer devant moi et je voulais en conserver quelque chose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Des hommes encadraient le cort\u00e8ge et veillaient sur les femmes. Je pensais naturellement devoir rester \u00e0 l\u2019ext\u00e9rieur. Pourtant, en me voyant photographier, ils m\u2019ont autoris\u00e9e \u00e0 m\u2019approcher, puis \u00e0 entrer parmi elles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et l\u00e0, tout a chang\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je me suis retrouv\u00e9e au c\u0153ur du cort\u00e8ge, serr\u00e9e parmi les saris, les bras lev\u00e9s pour maintenir les kalash, les fleurs, les noix de coco et les visages. Certaines femmes me regardaient avec curiosit\u00e9, d\u2019autres souriaient franchement, d\u2019autres poursuivaient leur marche sans se pr\u00e9occuper de ma pr\u00e9sence. J\u2019\u00e9tais \u00e9trang\u00e8re \u00e0 leur religion, \u00e9trang\u00e8re \u00e0 leur c\u00e9r\u00e9monie et pourtant, pendant quelques instants, elles m\u2019ont fait une place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je me souviens surtout du bonheur que j\u2019ai ressenti. Celui de pouvoir \u00eatre aussi pr\u00e8s, bien s\u00fbr, et de comprendre que j\u2019\u00e9tais probablement en train de r\u00e9aliser une s\u00e9rie de photographies exceptionnelle pour moi. Mais l\u2019\u00e9motion venait d\u2019ailleurs : on m\u2019avait laiss\u00e9e entrer. Je n\u2019observais plus la procession depuis le bord de la route, j\u2019\u00e9tais dedans, port\u00e9e quelques minutes par son mouvement et par cette incroyable profusion de femmes et de couleurs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-49' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-05122022-cd-6428\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-05122022 CD 6428-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-05122022-cd-6448\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-05122022 CD 6448-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-portrait-inde-05122022-cd-6447\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-Portrait Inde-05122022  CD 6447-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ces photographies sont rest\u00e9es parmi les plus belles que j\u2019aie jamais faites. Pas seulement pour ce qu\u2019elles montrent. Lorsque je les regarde, je me souviens encore de la voiture arr\u00eat\u00e9e, de ma course pour rattraper le cort\u00e8ge et de ce moment improbable o\u00f9 une fronti\u00e8re invisible s\u2019est ouverte devant moi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Agra \u2014 Des saris, de la poussi\u00e8re et les 60 ans de Thierry<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 Agra, nous avons aussi notre adresse. <br>Le Coral Court Homestay, une maison familiale \u00e0 quelques minutes \u00e0 pied du Taj Mahal, est devenu au fil de nos passages l\u2019un de ces endroits o\u00f9 nous aimons revenir. <br>Rien ici ne ressemble \u00e0 un h\u00f4tel standardis\u00e9 : des murs jaunes, turquoise ou orange, des meubles peints, des coussins brod\u00e9s, des lanternes, des tableaux et quantit\u00e9 de petits objets choisis avec soin. <br>La famille qui tient la maison a fa\u00e7onn\u00e9 chaque espace avec un go\u00fbt \u00e9vident pour les couleurs et l\u2019artisanat indien, jusqu\u2019\u00e0 cette grande terrasse baign\u00e9e de soleil o\u00f9 l\u2019on pourrait facilement oublier que l\u2019une des villes les plus visit\u00e9es d\u2019Inde s\u2019agite tout autour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous y retrouvons surtout quelque chose que nous cherchons de plus en plus lorsque nous voyageons : une maison plut\u00f4t qu\u2019un h\u00f4tel. Un lieu \u00e0 taille humaine, chaleureux, vivant, o\u00f9 l\u2019on se sent accueilli plut\u00f4t qu\u2019h\u00e9berg\u00e9. <br>Et \u00e0 Agra, malgr\u00e9 toutes les adresses possibles autour du Taj Mahal, c\u2019est ici que nous aimons poser nos valises lorsque nous revenons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et je trouve que \u00ab Notre maison d\u2019Agra \u00bb fonctionne particuli\u00e8rement bien comme petit interlude dans ton r\u00e9cit : il dit imm\u00e9diatement que ce lieu compte pour vous sans transformer le passage en recommandation touristique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-50' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-08122022-cd-7158\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-08122022 CD 7158-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-7013\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 7013-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-7022\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 7022-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-7038\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 7038-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-7044\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 7044-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-7006\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 7006-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">L&rsquo;eau \u00e9tait encore l\u00e0, au pied du Taj Mahal, avec la Yamuna et les longues bandes de saris color\u00e9s \u00e9tal\u00e9es sur ses rives. <br>Les laveurs travaillaient, les tissus s\u00e9chaient au soleil et le Taj se dressait derri\u00e8re cette vie quotidienne qui m&rsquo;int\u00e9ressait finalement autant que lui.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-51' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-08122022-cd-7182-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-08122022 CD 7182-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-08122022-cd-7209-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-08122022 CD 7209-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-08122022-cd-7377\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-08122022 CD 7377-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-08122022-cd-7382\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-08122022 CD 7382-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-08122022-cd-7392-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-08122022 CD 7392-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-08122022-cd-7419-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-08122022 CD 7419-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-08122022-cd-7424\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-08122022-CD-7424-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-08122022-cd-7426\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-08122022-CD-7426-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mais ce voyage avait aussi une date particuli\u00e8re : le 7 d\u00e9cembre, Thierry f\u00eatait ses 60 ans.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Avant de partir de France, j&rsquo;avais secr\u00e8tement r\u00e9colt\u00e9 aupr\u00e8s de notre famille et de nos amis le plus de messages d&rsquo;anniversaire possible. Mon id\u00e9e \u00e9tait de les lui donner au Taj Mahal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mauvaise id\u00e9e : impossible d&rsquo;y entrer avec tout cela.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le Taj ne voulait pas de mes petits papiers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ce fut donc devant le Baby Taj que Thierry d\u00e9couvrit sa surprise. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-52' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6977\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6977-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-07122022-cd-6983\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-07122022-CD-6983-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-07122022-cd-6990\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-07122022-CD-6990-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>J&rsquo;ai aujourd&rsquo;hui un triptyque de trois photographies de ce moment, avec les dessins et messages de ceux qui avaient pens\u00e9 \u00e0 lui depuis la France.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Finalement, le d\u00e9cor n&rsquo;aurait pas pu \u00eatre beaucoup plus beau.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-07122022%20CD%206979-2048x731.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6634\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et puis il y eut un Agra beaucoup moins connu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pr\u00e8s de la Yamuna, nous avons d\u00e9couvert une sorte de gare de marchandises o\u00f9 des hommes d\u00e9chargeaient des trains remplis de sacs de ciment. J&rsquo;ai obtenu l&rsquo;autorisation d&rsquo;entrer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 l&rsquo;int\u00e9rieur, tout \u00e9tait poussi\u00e8re.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Les hommes en \u00e9taient couverts, les sacs passaient de dos en dos et une \u00e9trange lumi\u00e8re bleut\u00e9e traversait parfois ce nuage gris. <br>J&rsquo;\u00e9tais seule au milieu de tous ces travailleurs, et pourtant je ne me suis jamais sentie mal \u00e0 l&rsquo;aise. <br>Au contraire : ils m&rsquo;interpellaient, me faisaient de grands signes, cherchaient mon objectif et riaient lorsqu&rsquo;ils r\u00e9ussissaient \u00e0 attirer mon attention.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je traversais cet endroit avec mon appareil et un immense sourire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je ne sais pas combien de voyageurs avaient d\u00e9j\u00e0 pens\u00e9 \u00e0 entrer ici. <br>Peu importe. Pour moi, c&rsquo;\u00e9tait une nouvelle fois la preuve que mes plus beaux souvenirs d&rsquo;Inde se trouvaient rarement l\u00e0 o\u00f9 l&rsquo;on m&rsquo;avait dit de regarder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-53' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7250\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7250-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7259\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7259-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7264\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7264-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7279\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7279-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7268\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7268-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7332\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7332-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7310\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7310-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7302\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7302-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7293\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7293-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7281\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7281-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Dans les ruelles d&rsquo;Agra<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 quelques pas du Taj Mahal, Agra reprend tr\u00e8s vite son visage quotidien. <br>Il suffit de quitter les grands axes et de marcher dans les ruelles pour retrouver cette Inde que j\u2019aime photographier : celle qui ne pose pas et ne semble m\u00eame pas remarquer qu\u2019on la regarde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au bord de la rue, un immense chaudron d\u2019huile bouillonne sur quelques briques noircies. <br>Des p\u00e2tons y gonflent et dorent sous le regard du vendeur, tandis qu\u2019un peu plus loin les samosas s\u2019entassent sur de grands plateaux de m\u00e9tal. <br>On cuisine dehors, presque \u00e0 hauteur du trottoir, au milieu des passants, des v\u00e9los et de ceux qui se sont simplement install\u00e9s l\u00e0 pour regarder la journ\u00e9e passer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ce sont des sc\u00e8nes minuscules, sans monument et sans c\u00e9r\u00e9monie. <br>Des hommes assis, un v\u00e9lo appuy\u00e9 contre une grille, un marchand occup\u00e9 \u00e0 son fourneau, la lumi\u00e8re qui accroche un visage ou traverse la vapeur d\u2019une friture. <br>Agra n\u2019est alors plus seulement la ville du Taj Mahal. <br>Elle redevient une ville indienne, ordinaire et vivante, et c\u2019est souvent l\u00e0 que mon regard pr\u00e9f\u00e8re s\u2019attarder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-54' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-07122022-cd-6788\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-07122022 CD 6788-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6789-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6789-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-08122022-cd-7441\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-08122022-CD-7441-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7454\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7454-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-08122022-cd-7458\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-08122022-CD-7458-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-08122022-cd-7463-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-08122022 CD 7463-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7544\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022 CD 7544-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-08122022-cd-7566\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-08122022-CD-7566-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7597\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022 CD 7597-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-09122022-cd-7822\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-09122022 CD 7822-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7501\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7501-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7536\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7536-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-08122022-cd-7564\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-08122022-CD-7564-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>Le Taj, encore<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il y a des endroits que l&rsquo;on peut revoir sans jamais avoir vraiment l&rsquo;impression d&rsquo;y revenir. <br>Le Taj Mahal est de ceux-l\u00e0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ce matin-l\u00e0, nous y sommes retourn\u00e9s t\u00f4t. Et pourtant, malgr\u00e9 les ann\u00e9es et les images d\u00e9j\u00e0 accumul\u00e9es, il y eut encore ce moment \u00e9trange lorsque sa silhouette apparut au bout des jardins. On sait parfaitement ce que l&rsquo;on va voir. <br>On l&rsquo;a vu mille fois en photographie, on l&rsquo;a d\u00e9j\u00e0 photographi\u00e9 soi-m\u00eame, et malgr\u00e9 tout, lorsqu&rsquo;il est l\u00e0, devant soi, il impose le silence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La lumi\u00e8re \u00e9tait encore douce et le marbre changeait presque \u00e0 mesure que nous avancions. <br>Blanc bleut\u00e9 dans les premi\u00e8res heures, puis peu \u00e0 peu ivoire, presque dor\u00e9 lorsque le soleil commen\u00e7a \u00e0 le toucher. <br>Dans les bassins, son reflet recomposait un autre Taj, fragile et tremblant, tandis qu&rsquo;autour de nous la foule prenait possession des jardins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-55' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6800\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6800-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022%20CD%206800-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022%20CD%206800-1200x1200.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022%20CD%206800-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022%20CD%206800-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022%20CD%206800-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022%20CD%206800-12x12.jpg 12w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6798-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6798-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6819\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6819-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6822-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6822-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6829-inde1\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6829-Inde1-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6842\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6842-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6846\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6846-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6927-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6927-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6913-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6913-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6845\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6845-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6850-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6850-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mais tr\u00e8s vite, comme toujours, mon regard s&rsquo;est d\u00e9tourn\u00e9 du monument.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Une femme en jaune, \u00e9clatante, jouait avec son voile devant le marbre blanc. <br>Une autre, v\u00eatue de vert, laissait derri\u00e8re elle le mouvement l\u00e9ger de son \u00e9toffe. <br>Des moines en robes safran traversaient l&rsquo;esplanade, minuscules touches de couleur au pied de l&rsquo;immense mausol\u00e9e. <br>Un homme balayait patiemment les motifs de pierre pendant que des visiteurs passaient sans vraiment le regarder. <br>Plus loin, des silhouettes s&rsquo;\u00e9tiraient dans la lumi\u00e8re et leurs longues ombres semblaient appartenir au d\u00e9cor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-56' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-07122022-cd-4447\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-07122022 CD 4447-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-07122022-cd-091336\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-07122022 CD 091336-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6856-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6856-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-07122022-cd-6839\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-07122022 CD 6839-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6867-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6867-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-07122022-cd-091426\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-07122022 CD 091426-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-6918\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 6918-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-07122022-cd-6938\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-07122022 CD 6938-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-08112025-cd-6748\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-08112025 CD 6748-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-07122022-cd-6885\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-07122022-CD-6885-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le Taj \u00e9tait partout, bien s\u00fbr. <br>Dans les perspectives parfaites, les minarets, les incrustations du marbre, les calligraphies, les jardins et les reflets. <br>Mais ce matin-l\u00e0, ce sont peut-\u00eatre encore une fois les gens autour de lui qui m&rsquo;ont donn\u00e9 mes images pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et puis il y avait nous. <br>Une photo sur un banc, le Taj derri\u00e8re moi. Le genre d&rsquo;image que je prends rarement et qui, avec les ann\u00e9es, finit pourtant par compter davantage qu&rsquo;on ne l&rsquo;imaginait au moment o\u00f9 elle a \u00e9t\u00e9 faite.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous avons quitt\u00e9 les jardins lorsque la lumi\u00e8re \u00e9tait devenue plus franche et que le Taj avait perdu les teintes d\u00e9licates du matin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je savais pourtant que je n&rsquo;en avais pas termin\u00e9 avec lui.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le soir, nous irions le retrouver de l&rsquo;autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la Yamuna, pour une derni\u00e8re lumi\u00e8re.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-57' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-08122022-cd-7614-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-08122022 CD 7614-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-08122022-cd-7697-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-08122022 CD 7697-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-07122022-cd-7065-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-07122022 CD 7065-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022-divers-08122022-cd-7621-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2022-Divers-08122022 CD 7621-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le lendemain matin, nous reprenions la route.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Quelques derni\u00e8res images<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il nous restait encore un peu de temps avant de rejoindre notre h\u00f4tel pr\u00e8s de l&rsquo;a\u00e9roport. <br>Alors nous avons poursuivi par Gokul, Mathura, Vrindavan et Barsana. <br>Quelques temples, quelques rues, quelques visages encore, comme si je voulais retarder le moment o\u00f9 il faudrait vraiment ranger l&rsquo;appareil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-58' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/09122022-cd-7801\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/09122022-CD-7801-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-grands-mammiferes-09122022-cd-7767\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-grands-mammiferes-09122022-CD-7767-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-grands-mammiferes-09122022-cd-7754\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-grands-mammiferes-09122022-CD-7754-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-09122022-cd-7750\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-09122022-CD-7750-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-cd-7746\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-CD-7746-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-cd-7743\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-CD-7743-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-10122022-cd-8124\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-10122022-CD-8124-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-10122022-cd-8104\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-10122022-CD-8104-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-10122022-cd-8094\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-10122022-CD-8094-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-cd-8056\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-CD-8056-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-09122022-cd-7949\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-09122022-CD-7949-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-cd-7934\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-CD-7934-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-09122022-cd-7929\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-09122022-CD-7929-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-cd-7909\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-CD-7909-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-cd-7905\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-CD-7905-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-cd-7906\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-CD-7906-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-09122022-cd-7887\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-09122022-CD-7887-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-portraits-09122022-cd-7818\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-portraits-09122022-CD-7818-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-09122022-cd-7822\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-09122022 CD 7822-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-cd-7810\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-CD-7810-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-grands-mammiferes-09122022-cd-7806\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-grands-mammiferes-09122022-CD-7806-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-cd-7811\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2022-divers-portraits-09122022-CD-7811-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-10122022-cd-819-inde1\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-10122022  CD 819-Inde1-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2022-09122022-cd-8020-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2022-09122022 CD 8020-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2022-09122022-cd-8005-inde\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2022-09122022 CD 8005-Inde-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Puis Delhi nous attendait une derni\u00e8re fois. <br>Avant que le voyage ne s&rsquo;ach\u00e8ve tout \u00e0 fait, nous sommes all\u00e9s du c\u00f4t\u00e9 de Lodhi Colony, o\u00f9 les fa\u00e7ades offrent un tout autre visage de la capitale. <br>Fresques monumentales, graffitis, couleurs \u00e9clatantes : apr\u00e8s les temples, les march\u00e9s, les palais et les sc\u00e8nes de rue accumul\u00e9es pendant trois semaines, je terminais presque naturellement ce voyage en photographiant des murs. <br>Quelques d\u00e9clenchements suppl\u00e9mentaires avant de refermer, pour de bon cette fois, le sac photo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-59' class='gallery galleryid-4567 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8344\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8344-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8361\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8361-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8357\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8357-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8354\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8354-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8360\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8360-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8336\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8336-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8307\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8307-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8269\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8269-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8254\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8254-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8416\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8416-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8410\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8410-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8399\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8399-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-10122022-cd-8395\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Inde-10122022 CD 8395-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vingt-deux jours apr\u00e8s notre d\u00e9part, l&rsquo;heure des adieux arriva pourtant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et il y avait Pal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je parle finalement assez peu de lui dans le r\u00e9cit de ce voyage. <br>Pourtant, il est partout. Il conduit, attend, explique, trouve un chai, s&rsquo;arr\u00eate parce qu&rsquo;il sait que quelque chose vient d&rsquo;attirer mon regard, puis profite parfois de nos visites pour se reposer. <br>Il n&rsquo;a plus besoin d&rsquo;\u00eatre constamment avec nous pour \u00eatre pr\u00e9sent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nos adieux aussi ont chang\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il y avait autrefois davantage de retenue. <br>D\u00e9sormais, nous nous serrons vraiment dans les bras. <br>Plus les voyages passent, plus il devient difficile de se quitter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En 2014, Pal \u00e9tait notre chauffeur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En 2022, apr\u00e8s trois ann\u00e9es durant lesquelles nous avions eu peur de ne jamais le revoir, nous venions de rencontrer sa famille et de partager un peu de sa vie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je ne le savais pas encore, mais quelque chose \u00e9tait devenu \u00e9vident.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Au fil de l&rsquo;eau, un autre fil reliait depuis longtemps tous mes voyages en Inde. <br>Et celui-l\u00e0 s&rsquo;appelait Pal<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n    <div class=\"acelione-yt-facade\" data-video-id=\"SBhfHNq9py8\">\r\n        <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.youtube.com\/vi\/SBhfHNq9py8\/maxresdefault.jpg\"\r\n             alt=\"Inde 2022 - Revenir encore\"\r\n             loading=\"lazy\" \/>\r\n        <button class=\"acelione-yt-play\" aria-label=\"Inde 2022 - Revenir encore\">\r\n            <svg viewbox=\"0 0 68 48\" width=\"68\" height=\"48\">\r\n                <path d=\"M66.52,7.74c-0.78-2.93-2.49-5.41-5.42-6.19C55.79,.13,34,0,34,0S12.21,.13,6.9,1.55 C3.97,2.33,2.27,4.81,1.48,7.74C0.06,13.05,0,24,0,24s0.06,10.95,1.48,16.26c0.78,2.93,2.49,5.41,5.42,6.19 C12.21,47.87,34,48,34,48s21.79-0.13,27.1-1.55c2.93-0.78,4.64-3.26,5.42-6.19C67.94,34.95,68,24,68,24S67.94,13.05,66.52,7.74z\" fill=\"#8B6914\"\/>\r\n                <path d=\"M 45,24 27,14 27,34\" fill=\"#fff\"\/>\r\n            <\/svg>\r\n        <\/button>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Pour ces vingt-deux jours, j\u2019avais imagin\u00e9 un fil conducteur : l\u2019eau. Le Gange, la Yamuna, la Narmada\u2026 Nous allions suivre les fleuves, les rivi\u00e8res, les ghats, prendre davantage notre temps et rester plus longtemps dans certaines villes. Delhi, Bateshwar, Lucknow, Varanasi, Allahabad, Chitrakoot, Jabalpur, Orchha, Gwalior, Agra, puis Gokul, Mathura, Vrindavan et Barsana avant le retour vers Delhi.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7863,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[169],"tags":[178],"class_list":["post-4567","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-indeen2022","tag-178"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>2022 : L&#039;Inde au fil de l&#039;eau, au fil des retrouvailles - Les Voyages d\u2019Ac\u00e9lione<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2022lindeaufildeleau\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"2022 : L&#039;Inde au fil de l&#039;eau, au fil des retrouvailles - Les Voyages d\u2019Ac\u00e9lione\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Pour ces vingt-deux jours, j\u2019avais imagin\u00e9 un fil conducteur : l\u2019eau. 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