{"id":4540,"date":"2017-11-27T09:47:08","date_gmt":"2017-11-27T08:47:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/?p=4540"},"modified":"2026-08-21T09:59:52","modified_gmt":"2026-08-21T07:59:52","slug":"2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\/","title":{"rendered":"2017 : L&rsquo;Inde prend une autre couleur"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-layout-flex wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button galerie-piwigo-btn\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/linde-au-detour-du-chemin-2017\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>Voir<\/strong> <strong>l&rsquo;Inde au d\u00e9tour du chemin 201<\/strong>7<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button galerie-piwigo-btn\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>Portraits crois\u00e9s en Inde<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button galerie-piwigo-btn\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/streetartinde\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong><strong>Street art indien<\/strong><\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-13112017-cd-5249\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-13112017 CD 5249-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Pendant des mois, je me suis surprise \u00e0 repenser \u00e0 mon premier voyage. <br>Une couleur aper\u00e7ue dans une vitrine, l&rsquo;odeur d&rsquo;une \u00e9pice, une photographie retrouv\u00e9e au fond d&rsquo;un tiroir\u2026 il suffisait de presque rien pour que les souvenirs du Rajasthan remontent. <br>Ce premier contact m&rsquo;avait \u00e9merveill\u00e9e, mais j&rsquo;avais le sentiment \u00e9trange de n&rsquo;en avoir vu que la surface. <br>Cette fois, je voulais aller plus loin, toucher l&rsquo;\u00e2me, la spiritualit\u00e9 et l&rsquo;humain, jusqu&rsquo;aux rives sacr\u00e9es du Gange.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Notre itin\u00e9raire \u00e9tait compl\u00e8tement diff\u00e9rent de celui de 2014. <br>Nous allions commencer par Varanasi avant de reprendre la route vers Khajuraho, Orchha, Gwalior, Amritsar, Dharamsala puis Delhi.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Je ne pouvais pas imaginer que ce voyage allait marquer un v\u00e9ritable tournant. Pas seulement dans ma mani\u00e8re de voyager, mais aussi dans ma mani\u00e8re de regarder. <br>Mon regard est encore un peu h\u00e9sitant. Je photographie beaucoup, je veux tout saisir, et ma ma\u00eetrise de la lumi\u00e8re est moins assur\u00e9e.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Apr\u00e8s une courte escale \u00e0 Delhi, nous reprenons un vol vers une ville dont je r\u00eavais depuis longtemps.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>Varanasi \u2013 L\u00e0 o\u00f9 la vie et la mort se donnent la main<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Son ancien nom, B\u00e9nar\u00e8s, r\u00e9sonnait en moi bien avant que mes pieds n&rsquo;en foulent le sol. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Depuis mon retour du Rajasthan, une image revenait sans cesse dans mon esprit : celle des ghats descendant vers le Gange et des barques glissant dans la brume du matin. \u00c0 notre arriv\u00e9e, la voiture abdique bien vite face au d\u00e9dale des ruelles \u00e9troites. <br>Il faut continuer \u00e0 pied, se frayer un chemin entre les boutiques minuscules d\u00e9bordantes d&rsquo;offrandes, de fleurs, d&rsquo;\u00e9pices et d&rsquo;encens. Le scooters intr\u00e9pides se faufilent partout, tandis que les vaches restent parfaitement immobiles, impassibles reines de ce labyrinthe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-12112017-cd-4915\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-12112017 CD 4915-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-13112017-cd-5324\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-13112017 CD 5324-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C&rsquo;est l\u00e0 que nous rencontrons Sunny, notre guide pour le s\u00e9jour. D\u00e8s les premi\u00e8res minutes, son sourire, sa douceur et son amour de sa ville nous mettent en confiance. Il ne se contente pas de nous montrer les ruelles, il nous aide d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 les comprendre. <br>Je ne le sais pas encore, mais cette premi\u00e8re rencontre sera le d\u00e9but d&rsquo;une belle amiti\u00e9 qui traversera les ann\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Quelques minutes plus tard, nous arrivons enfin au Ganpati Guest House, un h\u00f4tel qui domine directement les ghats. <br>Lorsque j&rsquo;ouvre les volets de notre chambre, le temps s&rsquo;arr\u00eate. <br>Le Gange s&rsquo;\u00e9tend devant moi, et des barques d\u00e9rivent lentement sur une eau presque immobile. <br>Les marches des ghats descendent jusqu&rsquo;au fleuve dans une succession de couleurs ocres, rouges et dor\u00e9es. <br>Moi qui aime profond\u00e9ment l&rsquo;eau, je me sens imm\u00e9diatement chez moi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-3' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-12112017-cd-4956\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-12112017 CD 4956-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-12112017-cd-4959\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-12112017 CD 4959-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-divers-12112017-cd-4965\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2017-divers-12112017-CD-4965-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-12112017-cd-4964\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-12112017 CD 4964-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-divers-13112017-cd-5240\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2017-divers-13112017-CD-5240-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-13112017-cd-5256\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-13112017 CD 5256-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le lendemain matin, nous descendons tr\u00e8s t\u00f4t vers le fleuve. <br>La ville est d\u00e9j\u00e0 r\u00e9veill\u00e9e. <br>Les premiers p\u00e8lerins viennent accomplir leurs ablutions avec une ferveur recueillie. <br>Des femmes lavent leur linge en le frappant \u00e9nergiquement contre les pierres, puis d\u00e9ploient d&rsquo;immenses draps color\u00e9s qui s\u00e8chent au soleil directement sur les marches. Quelques vaches dorment paisiblement, de grands boucs se prom\u00e8nent tranquillement avec assurance au milieu des passants, et des sadhus m\u00e9ditent, assis en silence. Partout, la vie est en mouvement dans une harmonie troublante. <br>Chaque ghat poss\u00e8de sa propre fonction : l&rsquo;un est consacr\u00e9 aux pri\u00e8res, un autre au lavage du linge ou aux c\u00e9r\u00e9monies religieuses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-4' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-12112017-cd-5020\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-12112017 CD 5020-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-12112017-cd-4996\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-12112017 CD 4996-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-12112017-cd-5009\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-12112017 CD 5009-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-12112017-cd-4994\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-12112017 CD 4994-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-12112017-cd-4959\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-12112017 CD 4959-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-12112017-cd-4956\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-12112017 CD 4956-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Puis nous arrivons devant Manikarnika Ghat, le c\u00e9l\u00e8bre et redout\u00e9 site des cr\u00e9mations.<br>J&rsquo;appr\u00e9hendais ce moment, m&rsquo;attendant \u00e0 la lourdeur des odeurs et de la douleur, mais il n&rsquo;en est rien. <br>Je ne sens que le bois des b\u00fbchers. Les familles accompagnent leurs proches avec une infinie et bouleversante dignit\u00e9. <br>Les corps, envelopp\u00e9s d&rsquo;un simple linceul blanc, sont d\u00e9pos\u00e9s sur le bois.Pour les hindous, mourir ici permet de mettre fin au cycle des r\u00e9incarnations et d&rsquo;atteindre la paix \u00e9ternelle. <br>Ce qui me bouleverse le plus, c&rsquo;est le contraste. <br>\u00c0 quelques m\u00e8tres seulement, des enfants jouent en plongeant dans le Gange, des femmes discutent en riant et des vendeurs de chai interpellent les passants. <br>La vie la plus vibrante et le dernier adieu se c\u00f4toient naturellement, sans se heurter ni se cacher.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-5' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-inde-herbivores-inde-herbivores-13112017-cd-5314\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Inde-Herbivores Inde-Herbivores 13112017 CD 5314-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-13112017-cd-5191\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-13112017 CD 5191-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-13112017-cd-5178\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-13112017 CD 5178-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-13112017-cd-5313\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-13112017 CD 5313-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-13112017-cd-5279\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-13112017 CD 5279-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-13112017-cd-5303\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-13112017 CD 5303-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-13112017-cd-5294\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-13112017 CD 5294-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-13112017-cd-5308\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-13112017 CD 5308-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2017-13112017-cd-5292\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2017-13112017 CD 5292-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Derri\u00e8re les ghats, B\u00e9nar\u00e8s change de visage. <br>Dans le d\u00e9dale des ruelles vivent ceux que l\u2019on remarque \u00e0 peine : petits vendeurs avec quelques fruits pos\u00e9s devant eux, travailleurs, vieillards, familles, enfants, hommes endormis dans un coin\u2026 <br>On y croise de tout, souvent tr\u00e8s peu de choses, et pourtant tellement de vie. C\u2019est l\u00e0 que je retrouve mes Invisibles, cette Inde modeste et quotidienne qui ne demande rien et raconte tant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-6' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-13112017-cd-5385\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-13112017 CD 5385-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-14112017-cd-5508-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-14112017 CD 5508-2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2017-13112017-cd-5325\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2017-13112017 CD 5325-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-13112017-cd-5330\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-13112017 CD 5330-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-14112017-cd-5506\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-14112017 CD 5506-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-12112017-cd-4920-3\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-12112017 CD 4920-3-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au moment de quitter la ville,  je comprends enfin pourquoi tant de voyageurs disent que cette ville poss\u00e8de une \u00e2me.<br>Non, elle ne poss\u00e8de pas une \u00e2me : elle est une \u00e2me, et je crois qu&rsquo;une petite partie de la mienne vient d&rsquo;y rester \u00e0 jamais.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>Khajuraho<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il est d\u00e9j\u00e0 temps de quitter B\u00e9nar\u00e8s pour nous envoler vers Khajuraho. Cette \u00e9tape est courte. <br>Bien s\u00fbr, les c\u00e9l\u00e8bres temples sont remarquables, avec une architecture exceptionnelle et des sculptures d&rsquo;une finesse infinie souvent associ\u00e9es au K\u00e2mas\u00fbtra. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Chaque pierre semble raconter une histoire vieille de plusieurs si\u00e8cles, mais mon esprit est d\u00e9j\u00e0 tourn\u00e9 vers la suite.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pour moi, cette \u00e9tape repr\u00e9sente surtout un \u00e9v\u00e9nement pr\u00e9cieux : le moment o\u00f9 nous retrouvons Pal, qui nous attend \u00e0 l&rsquo;a\u00e9roport. <br>L&rsquo;ann\u00e9e pr\u00e9c\u00e9dente, nous \u00e9tions encore chauffeur et voyageurs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-7' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5594\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5594-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5615\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5615-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5614\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5614-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5613\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5613-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5609\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5609-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5607\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5607-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5606\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5606-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5605\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5605-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5596\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5596-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5633\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5633-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5630\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5630-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5628\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5628-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5624\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5624-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5617\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5617-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5653\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5653-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5593\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5593-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-14112017-cd-5589\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-14112017 CD 5589-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">La ch\u00e8vre en pyjama<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 Khajuraho, pendant que nous explorions autre chose que ses c\u00e9l\u00e8bres temples, je suis tomb\u00e9e sur la ch\u00e8vre la mieux assortie de toute l\u2019Inde : petit pyjama orange et blanc, posant devant un mur rouge flamboyant. Il ne lui manquait plus que le turban ! <br>En Inde, m\u00eame les ch\u00e8vres semblent parfois avoir r\u00e9fl\u00e9chi \u00e0 leur palette de couleurs avant de sortir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-8' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-inde-herbivores-inde-herbivores-14112017-cd-5514\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Inde-Herbivores Inde-Herbivores 14112017 CD 5514-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cette fois, quelque chose a chang\u00e9. Nous nous connaissons d\u00e9j\u00e0 un peu. <br>Sans un mot, il commence \u00e0 anticiper nos envies, nos pauses photo et notre curiosit\u00e9 permanente, comprenant que le vrai voyage ne se fera jamais uniquement d&rsquo;un point A \u00e0 un point B, mais dans tout l&rsquo;espace qui se niche entre les deux. <br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>Sur la route \u2013 Retrouvailles, \u00e9clats de rire et douceur de vivre<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 peine sortis de Khajuraho, nous retrouvons ces longues routes indiennes que j&rsquo;aime tant et qui ne sont jamais monotones. <br>Chaque kilom\u00e8tre apporte son lot de surprises. Un petit village appara\u00eet au d\u00e9tour d&rsquo;un virage, des femmes reviennent des champs avec un fagot de bois sur la t\u00eate, des enfants interrompent leurs jeux pour nous saluer et des hommes discutent devant une \u00e9choppe o\u00f9 le chai fume d\u00e9j\u00e0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-9' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-5606\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 5606-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-5810\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 5810-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-5813\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 5813-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-5806\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 5806-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-5820\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 5820-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-13112017-cd-5345\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-13112017 CD 5345-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2017-13112017-cd-5348\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2017-13112017 CD 5348-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C&rsquo;est sur ces routes que je comprends le r\u00f4le grandissant de Pal. Il ne conduit pas seulement : il observe. <br>Il ralentit avant m\u00eame que je ne lui demande, sachant reconna\u00eetre le march\u00e9 o\u00f9 j&rsquo;aurai envie de fl\u00e2ner ou la sc\u00e8ne de vie qui me plaira. <br>Nous commen\u00e7ons doucement \u00e0 voyager au m\u00eame rythme. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-10' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-5821\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 5821-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-5820\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 5820-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-13112017-cd-5381\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-13112017 CD 5381-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-5897\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 5897-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-5896\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 5896-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-5894\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 5894-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6025-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6025-2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6027\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6027-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6061\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6061-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-5996\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 5996-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je ne cherche plus seulement les sites c\u00e9l\u00e8bres, je cherche la vie, et mon appareil photo se tourne de plus en plus vers les gens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>Orchha<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Orchha \u2014 L\u00e0 o\u00f9 le temps ralentit<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, les premiers c\u00e9notaphes d\u2019Orchha apparaissent au loin. <br>\u00c0 mesure que nous approchons, quelque chose change. Le bruit semble s\u2019\u00e9loigner, le rythme ralentit. <br>Orchha n\u2019a ni le tumulte de Delhi, ni la ferveur de B\u00e9nar\u00e8s, ni la d\u00e9mesure des grandes villes indiennes. Elle ne cherche pas \u00e0 s\u00e9duire. Elle est simplement l\u00e0, pos\u00e9e au bord de la Betwa, avec ses palais, ses temples et ses silhouettes de pierre qui d\u00e9passent des arbres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-11' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6556\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6556-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6586\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6586-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6589\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6589-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6590\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6590-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6592\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6592-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6594\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6594-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6603\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6603-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6612\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6612-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Notre premi\u00e8re soir\u00e9e commence presque comme dans un conte. La demeure o\u00f9 nous logeons s\u2019illumine dans la nuit, rouge et or sous les arcades. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-12' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6699\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6699-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6704\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6704-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-17112017-cd-6714\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-17112017 CD 6714-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>Puis, d\u00e8s le lendemain, je retrouve ce que je pr\u00e9f\u00e8re : sortir des monuments et regarder vivre les gens. <br>Une cuisine ouverte sur la rue, noircie par les ann\u00e9es et la fum\u00e9e, o\u00f9 s\u2019entassent casseroles, th\u00e9i\u00e8res et une montagne de beignets tout juste frits. <br>Plus loin, un petit march\u00e9 de l\u00e9gumes. Les femmes sont assises au ras du sol derri\u00e8re leurs paniers de gingembre, de choux-fleurs et de goyaves. <br>L\u2019une d\u2019elles m\u2019intrigue particuli\u00e8rement. <br>Drap\u00e9e de vert et de jaune, les mains crois\u00e9es devant elle, elle me regarde avec une expression presque s\u00e9v\u00e8re. <br>Je la photographie de loin, puis de plus pr\u00e8s. Elle ne sourit toujours pas. Tant pis : son visage raconte d\u00e9j\u00e0 beaucoup.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-13' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-16112017-cd-6493\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-16112017 CD 6493-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6070-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6070-2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6080\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6080-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-16112017-cd-6491\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-16112017 CD 6491-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Puis nous rejoignons la Betwa. I<br>ci, la rivi\u00e8re n\u2019est pas un d\u00e9cor. Elle fait partie de la vie. Des jeunes hommes se baignent entre les \u00e9normes rochers roses, discutent, rient et finissent \u00e9videmment par rep\u00e9rer mon appareil. <br>Quelques secondes plus tard, les voil\u00e0 qui posent. <br>L\u2019Inde a cette facult\u00e9 merveilleuse de transformer une sc\u00e8ne ordinaire en petit th\u00e9\u00e2tre improvis\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-14' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6128\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6128-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Notre promenade nous conduit&nbsp; devant un g\u00e9ant. <br>Un immense baobab multi centenaire, monumental, presque incongru dans ce paysage, avec son tronc \u00e9norme qui semble avoir absorb\u00e9 les ann\u00e9es. <br>J\u2019ai toujours eu quelque chose avec les arbres, surtout ceux qui paraissent avoir beaucoup plus de choses \u00e0 raconter que nous. Celui-l\u00e0 me fascine imm\u00e9diatement. <br>Je tourne autour, je l\u00e8ve les yeux, je photographie son \u00e9corce, ses proportions d\u00e9mesur\u00e9es. <br>Il suffit parfois d\u2019un arbre pour que je tombe amoureuse d\u2019un endroit. <br>Orchha venait de marquer un s\u00e9rieux point. J\u2019y reviendrai \u00e0 chaque fois pour le saluer.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-15' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-divers-02122017-cd-5120\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2017-divers-02122017-CD-5120-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-divers-03122017-cd-5638\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2017-divers-03122017-CD-5638-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-divers-03122017-cd-5639\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2017-divers-03122017-CD-5639-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Apr\u00e8s cette d\u00e9couverte extraordinaire, nous d\u00e9cidons de redescendre vers la rivi\u00e8re o\u00f9 je verrais un personnage qui fera partie de mes plus beaux souvenirs d\u2019Inde et que je retrouverai \u00e9galement \u00e0 chacun de mes passages \u00e0 Orchha.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au bord de la Betwa, une silhouette m\u2019arr\u00eate. Un sadhu marche lentement vers la rivi\u00e8re\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C\u2019est au bord de cette m\u00eame rivi\u00e8re que je l\u2019aper\u00e7ois. Je le vois d\u2019abord marcher vers l\u2019eau, lentement, pieds nus, une longue \u00e9toffe grise jet\u00e9e sur l\u2019\u00e9paule. <br>Son v\u00eatement rouge tranche sur les tons doux de la rivi\u00e8re et des rochers ; des fleurs orange sont piqu\u00e9es dans ses cheveux et entourent ses poignets. <br>Je le suis du regard sans savoir ce qu\u2019il va faire. <br>Il rejoint un \u00e9norme rocher, grimpe, s\u2019installe en tailleur et, soudain, tout s\u2019arr\u00eate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il m\u00e9dite.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-16' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6135\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6135-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6137\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6137-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je reste \u00e0 distance. La lumi\u00e8re de fin de journ\u00e9e vient caresser son visage et sa barbe blanche. <br>Les soucis de cadrage, de r\u00e9glages et de photographie disparaissent presque. <br>Devant moi, il n\u2019y a plus qu\u2019un homme immobile, les yeux ferm\u00e9s, pos\u00e9 sur son rocher au milieu du mouvement de la rivi\u00e8re. <br>Puis il arrange tranquillement son \u00e9toffe, remet quelques fleurs en place, avant de retrouver son immobilit\u00e9. <br>Ce sont ces moments-l\u00e0 que je cherche sans vraiment savoir que je les cherche : ceux qu\u2019aucun programme de voyage ne peut pr\u00e9voir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Orchha, pourtant, poss\u00e8de aussi un patrimoine extraordinaire. <br>Le lendemain, nous d\u00e9couvrons ses palais et ses c\u00e9notaphes dress\u00e9s au-dessus des jardins. <br>Le Jehangir Mahal et le Raja Mahal racontent une Inde plus fastueuse, celle des souverains, des cours int\u00e9rieures, des coupoles et des peintures murales. <br>Mais m\u00eame ici, je finis toujours par regarder ailleurs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-17' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-15112017-cd-6157\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-15112017 CD 6157-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-15112017-cd-6161\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-15112017 CD 6161-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-15112017-cd-6165\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-15112017 CD 6165-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/dav-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 095008-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6410\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6410-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6415\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6415-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6479\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6479-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6480\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6480-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-16112017-cd-6443\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-16112017 CD 6443-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6416\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6416-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6422\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6422-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6423\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6423-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6424\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6424-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6426\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6426-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6428\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6428-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6429-2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6429-2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6430\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6430-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>Une famille traverse une cour : saris roses et rouges \u00e9clatants sur la pierre blonde. <br>Une vieille dame v\u00eatue de blanc se penche vers un robinet pour recueillir quelques gouttes d\u2019eau. <br>Dans une ruelle, deux femmes sont assises devant leur maison tandis qu\u2019un chien somnole entre elles. <br>Un peu plus loin, une grand-m\u00e8re aux grandes lunettes observe une fillette v\u00eatue de rouge qui tient la porte ouverte. <br>Le patrimoine est magnifique, mais ce sont encore les gens qui me retiennent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-18' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6198\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6198-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6238\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6238-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6265\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6265-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6236\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6236-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cette proximit\u00e9 prend tout son sens puisque nous dormons aussi chez l\u2019habitant, dans une maison du programme Friends of Orchha Homestay. <br>Ici, pas de grand h\u00f4tel isol\u00e9 de la vie du village : nous entrons r\u00e9ellement, pour quelques heures, dans un quotidien qui n\u2019est pas le n\u00f4tre. <br>On cuisine devant la maison, on s&rsquo;assoit dehors, on se regarde d\u2019abord avec curiosit\u00e9 avant que les sourires fassent le reste. <br>Nous ne partageons pas vraiment la m\u00eame langue, mais cela devient vite secondaire. <br>Notre chambre chez l\u2019habitant \u00e9tait d\u00e9j\u00e0 occup\u00e9e : sept petits geckos avaient \u00e9lu domicile sur les murs. Discrets, parfaitement chez eux, ils furent nos minuscules compagnons de nuit\u2026 et, finalement, de charmants colocataires&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-19' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-inde-reptiles15112017-cd-6346\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Inde-Reptiles15112017 CD 6346-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-inde-reptiles15112017-cd-6343\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Inde-Reptiles15112017 CD 6343-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6293\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6293-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-16112017-cd-6369\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-16112017 CD 6369-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-15112017-cd-6281\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-15112017 CD 6281-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-15112017-cd-6283\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-15112017 CD 6283-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-16112017-cd-6353\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-16112017 CD 6353-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-16112017-cd-6356\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-16112017 CD 6356-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-16112017-cd-6364\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-16112017 CD 6364-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6365\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6365-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-16112017-cd-6374\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-16112017 CD 6374-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6376\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6376-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-16112017-cd-6377\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6377-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au d\u00e9tour du march\u00e9, une m\u00e8re et son petit passent tranquillement devant nous\u2026 cigarette au bec pour maman. J\u2019avoue \u00eatre rest\u00e9e entre le fou rire et la stup\u00e9faction. M\u00eame chez les macaques : \u201cFumer nuit gravement \u00e0 la sant\u00e9\u201d\u2026 et l\u2019exemple parental laisse parfois \u00e0 d\u00e9sirer !&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-20' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-inde-singes-16112017-cd-6449\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Inde-Singes-16112017 CD 6449-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-inde-singes-16112017-cd-6450\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Inde-Singes-16112017 CD 6450-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et puis il y a cette petite boutique o\u00f9 je d\u00e9cide de chercher une tapisserie repr\u00e9sentant un \u00e9l\u00e9phant pour Axelle. Une formalit\u00e9, pensais-je. Cinq minutes tout au plus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Erreur de d\u00e9butante.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le vendeur en d\u00e9plie une. Puis une autre. Puis dix. Puis vingt. \u00c0 mesure que la pile monte, ma capacit\u00e9 \u00e0 choisir diminue. <br>Thierry assiste au spectacle pendant que le marchandage s\u2019installe et que l\u2019achat d\u2019une simple tapisserie menace de devenir l\u2019activit\u00e9 principale de l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi. Pal, lui, a compris depuis longtemps comment survivre \u00e0 mes h\u00e9sitations : il dispara\u00eet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il revient quelques minutes plus tard avec des beignets encore br\u00fblants envelopp\u00e9s dans du papier journal et deux chais fumants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-21' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/dav-3\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 125615-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-20171116-img_0723\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-20171116-IMG_0723-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-20171116-img_0755\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-20171116-IMG_0755-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c0 cet instant, la tapisserie peut bien attendre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je finirai tout de m\u00eame par repartir avec mon \u00e9l\u00e9phant, quelques miettes sur le pantalon et la confirmation qu\u2019en Inde, un achat de cinq minutes peut parfaitement prendre une heure et devenir un souvenir de voyage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Lorsque nous quittons Orchha, ce ne sont finalement ni les noms des palais ni leur histoire que je garde en premier. Je revois le vert et le jaune des femmes du march\u00e9, les saris traversant les vieilles pierres, les gar\u00e7ons dans la Betwa, la cuisine noircie et ses beignets, les maisons o\u00f9 la vie d\u00e9borde jusque dans la rue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et surtout, je revois cet homme en rouge. \u201cMon Sadhu\u201d comme je le nomme maintenant.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Une fois de plus, immobile sur son rocher. Ma derni\u00e8re image, ma derni\u00e8re photo d\u2019Orchha.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-22' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-15112017-cd-6149\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-15112017 CD 6149-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Orchha restera pour moi ainsi : une Inde qui, pendant quelques heures, semble avoir d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de ralentir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>On the road \u2013 Le go\u00fbt du travail<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Entre Orchha et Gwalior, Pal nous fait quitter la route principale pour pousser la porte d&rsquo;un endroit que peu de voyageurs connaissent. <br>D\u00e8s que nous descendons de voiture, une odeur chaude de caramel et de canne \u00e0 sucre envahit l&rsquo;air. <br>Ici, derri\u00e8re des murs noircis par la fum\u00e9e, on fabrique le gur, ce sucre de canne brut enti\u00e8rement artisanal dont le savoir-faire se transmet depuis des g\u00e9n\u00e9rations. <br>Les ouvriers nous invitent d&rsquo;un signe de t\u00eate \u00e0 approcher. <br>Au fond de l&rsquo;atelier, la canne fra\u00eechement r\u00e9colt\u00e9e est broy\u00e9e pour en extraire un jus verd\u00e2tre, qui est ensuite vers\u00e9 dans d&rsquo;immenses bassins circulaires pour cuire pendant des heures.<br>Dans une chaleur \u00e9touffante et une vapeur permanente, les hommes travaillent avec une pr\u00e9cision impressionnante. <br>\u00c0 l&rsquo;aide de longues perches en bambou, ils remuent sans rel\u00e2che cette mati\u00e8re br\u00fblante devenue \u00e9paisse et dor\u00e9e. <br>Leur travail est d&rsquo;une incroyable p\u00e9nibilit\u00e9, mais je ne note aucune plainte, seulement une concentration silencieuse. <br>Fier de partager son m\u00e9tier, un ouvrier me montre les \u00e9tapes. <br>Rien ne se perd : le r\u00e9sidu fibreux de la canne, la bagasse, sert \u00e0 alimenter le feu sous les cuves, cr\u00e9ant une v\u00e9ritable \u00e9conomie circulaire bien avant la mode du mot. <br>Une fois la cuisson termin\u00e9e, la p\u00e2te refroidit sur des toiles avant d&rsquo;\u00eatre fa\u00e7onn\u00e9e en gros blocs couleur miel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-23' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4249\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4249-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4261\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4261-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4288\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4288-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4199\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4199-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4103\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4103-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4296\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4296-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4093\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4093-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4299\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4299-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4141\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4141-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4181\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4181-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4124\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4124-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4117\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4117-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4165\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4165-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4106\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4106-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4120\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4120-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4159\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4159-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4116\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4116-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-4275\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-4275-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-gur-divers-06122022-cd-4095\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde 2017-Gur-Divers-06122022 CD 4095-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-17112017-cd-6836\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-17112017 CD 6836-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-17112017-cd-6824\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-17112017 CD 6824-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-17112017-cd-6774\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-17112017 CD 6774-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Impossible de repartir sans go\u00fbter. On me tend un morceau encore ti\u00e8de. Je dois bien avouer que ce sucre, avec son go\u00fbt puissant de m\u00e9lasse et sa texture p\u00e2teuse, ne sera jamais ma gourmandise pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9e. <br>Ma grimace de surprise d\u00e9clenche d&rsquo;ailleurs l&rsquo;hilarit\u00e9 g\u00e9n\u00e9rale des ouvriers. <br>Thierry s&rsquo;en amuse encore, mais je n&rsquo;oublierai jamais la dignit\u00e9 de ces visages au travail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>Gwalior<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Soudain, pos\u00e9e au sommet de son immense plateau rocheux, la forteresse de Gwalior appara\u00eet et domine toute la ville. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-24' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6951\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6951-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6941\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6941-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>La mont\u00e9e est spectaculaire : la route serpente jusqu&rsquo;aux remparts tandis que de gigantesques statues ja\u00efnes, sculpt\u00e9es directement dans la falaise, surgissent dans un silence irr\u00e9el.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-25' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-7015\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 7015-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-7017\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 7017-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-7018\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 7018-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-7019\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 7019-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-7020\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 7020-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-7023\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 7023-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-7025\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 7025-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-7028\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 7028-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-7036\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 7036-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-7033\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 7033-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-7021\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 7021-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><div>Plus loin sur la route, le Man Mandir Palace attire le regard avec ses c\u00e9l\u00e8bres fa\u00efences bleu turquoise qui, malgr\u00e9 les si\u00e8cles, conservent un \u00e9clat \u00e9tonnant.<\/div><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-26' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6937\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6937-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6942\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6942-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6947\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6947-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6948\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6948-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6950\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6950-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6958\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6958-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6962\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6962-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6979\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6979-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6982\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6982-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6992\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6992-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6993\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6993-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6995\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6995-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6998\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6998-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Tr\u00e8s vite pourtant, les monuments cessent d&rsquo;\u00eatre les seuls sujets de mes photographies. <br>Au d\u00e9tour d&rsquo;une cour, une famille indienne me demande timidement si elle peut faire une photo avec nous, puis un groupe d&rsquo;\u00e9tudiants rieurs nous aborde. <br>Nous acceptons avec grand plaisir, amus\u00e9s de nous demander ce qui peut rendre deux Fran\u00e7ais si int\u00e9ressants. <br>C&rsquo;est l&rsquo;ann\u00e9e o\u00f9 nous r\u00e9alisons que le voyage est un miroir, et que nous sommes presque autant photographi\u00e9s que le fort lui-m\u00eame.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-27' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-inde-petits-mammiferes-17112017-cd-6965\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Inde-Petits mammiferes-17112017 CD 6965-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-inde-petits-mammiferes-17112017-cd-6970\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Inde-Petits mammiferes-17112017 CD 6970-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6946\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6946-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-17112017-cd-6939\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-17112017 CD 6939-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-17112017-cd-6940\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-17112017 CD 6940-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous restons dormir sur place, comprenant qu&rsquo;une nuit permet de voir une ville s&rsquo;apaiser et offre la sensation agr\u00e9able d&rsquo;avoir enfin pris le temps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>Fatehpur Sikri<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le lendemain matin, la route nous m\u00e8ne jusqu&rsquo;aux remparts de Fatehpur Sikri. <br>Cette ancienne capitale de l&#8217;empereur Akbar poss\u00e8de quelque chose de particulier : elle n&rsquo;a jamais \u00e9t\u00e9 engloutie par une ville moderne et surgit seule, immense, construite dans cette pierre rouge si caract\u00e9ristique qui change de couleur au fil des heures. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-28' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-7041\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 7041-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-18112017-cd-7108\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-18112017 CD 7108-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-18112017-cd-7169\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-18112017 CD 7169-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">D\u00e8s que nous franchissons ses portes, j&rsquo;ai le sentiment de remonter les si\u00e8cles. <br>Le c\u00e9l\u00e8bre Diwan-i-Khas, avec son incroyable pilier central sculpt\u00e9, me fascine, mais ce sont les personnes qui ram\u00e8nent doucement la ville \u00e0 la vie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-29' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-divers-18112017-cd-7295\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2017-divers-18112017-CD-7295-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-divers-18112017-cd-7322\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2017-divers-18112017-CD-7322-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-18112017-cd-7331\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-18112017 CD 7331-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-18112017-cd-7333\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-18112017 CD 7333-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-18112017-cd-7335\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-18112017 CD 7335-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-18112017-cd-7338\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-18112017 CD 7338-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-18112017-cd-7360\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-18112017 CD 7360-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-18112017-cd-7373\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-18112017 CD 7373-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-18112017-cd-7387\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-18112017 CD 7387-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-18112017-cd-7398\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-18112017 CD 7398-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dans un escalier baign\u00e9 d&rsquo;une lumi\u00e8re magique, j&rsquo;aper\u00e7ois un groupe de jeunes Indiens assis c\u00f4te \u00e0 c\u00f4te. <br>Je leur demande d&rsquo;un geste si je peux les photographier. Leur r\u00e9ponse est imm\u00e9diate, les sourires apparaissent et nous partageons un long moment de rires en regardant les images sur l&rsquo;\u00e9cran de mon appareil. Je r\u00e9alise plusieurs portraits que j&rsquo;aime \u00e9norm\u00e9ment. (Huit ans plus tard, en revenant \u00e0 Fatehpur Sikri en 2025, je chercherai instinctivement ce m\u00eame escalier pour retrouver cette lumi\u00e8re, mais l&rsquo;acc\u00e8s sera interdit par une simple barri\u00e8re, me rappelant qu&rsquo;un instant de voyage est unique et ne se rejoue jamais). <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-30' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-18112017-cd-7399\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-18112017 CD 7399-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Avant de repartir, nous nous dirigeons vers la monumentale Buland Darwaza, dont les proportions gigantesques se d\u00e9coupent sur le ciel bleu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-31' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-divers-06112025-cd-102728963\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2017-divers-06112025-CD-102728963-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-divers-202511-203103\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2017-divers-202511-203103-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2014-divers-07112014-cd-6989\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2014-Divers-07112014 CD 6989-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>De Fatehpur Sikri \u00e0 Amritsar \u2013 Une Inde qui change de visage<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous rejoignons Mathura pour la nuit, puis Pal nous conduit le lendemain dans les rues de la capitale.<br>En remontant vers Delhi, l\u2019Inde nous offre encore l\u2019un de ces contrastes qu\u2019elle sait si bien fabriquer. Sur la route, dans la lumi\u00e8re poussi\u00e9reuse du matin, nous croisons des charrettes lourdement charg\u00e9es, tir\u00e9es par des \u00e2nes, des chevaux et m\u00eame un dromadaire. Des silhouettes venues d\u2019un autre temps avancent tranquillement au milieu d\u2019un pays qui, lui, file d\u00e9j\u00e0 vers la modernit\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-32' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-19112017-cd-7618\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-19112017 CD 7618-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-19112017-cd-7619\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-19112017 CD 7619-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-19112017-cd-7623\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-19112017 CD 7623-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-19112017-cd-7624\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-19112017 CD 7624-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-17112017-cd-6857\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-17112017 CD 6857-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>Et puis, presque sans transition, surgit au loin la silhouette monumentale du Swaminarayan Akshardham de Delhi. Impossible de nous arr\u00eater comme je l\u2019aurais voulu ; je ne peux le photographier que de loin. Sa pierre rose, ses coupoles et ses lignes parfaitement ordonn\u00e9es semblent appartenir \u00e0 un autre monde que celui des charrettes crois\u00e9es quelques kilom\u00e8tres auparavant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-33' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-19112017-cd-7655\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-19112017 CD 7655-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-19112017-cd-7656\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-19112017 CD 7656-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>Quelques kilom\u00e8tres seulement s\u00e9parent ces deux Indes : celle qui avance encore au rythme des sabots et celle qui dresse vers le ciel des temples d\u00e9mesur\u00e9s. Sur la route de Delhi, elles ne s\u2019opposent m\u00eame pas. Elles coexistent. Et c\u2019est peut-\u00eatre cela, l\u2019Inde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>Il nous emm\u00e8ne \u00e0 Chandni Chowk, le vieux c\u0153ur chaotique de Delhi. <br>\u00c0 peine arriv\u00e9s, nous sommes happ\u00e9s par une incroyable \u00e9nergie : les rickshaws se faufilent avec une pr\u00e9cision \u00e9tonnante, les \u00e9pices embaument et les samossas gr\u00e9sillent dans les grandes po\u00eales. <br>Je marche lentement, l&rsquo;appareil photo \u00e0 la main. <br>Tous les trois m\u00e8tres, quelque chose attire mon regard : un nettoyeur d&rsquo;oreilles install\u00e9 sur le trottoir, un barbier, un marchand de jalebis ou une vieille fa\u00e7ade cach\u00e9e derri\u00e8re un enchev\u00eatrement de fils \u00e9lectriques. <br>Une promenade de vingt minutes se transforme facilement en une heure, sous le regard amus\u00e9 de Thierry et Pal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En quittant le quartier, nous retrouvons Ranjeet, notre correspondant local et ami depuis notre tout premier voyage. <br>Il souhaite nous faire d\u00e9couvrir un lieu qui lui tient \u00e0 c\u0153ur : le Gurudwara Bangla Sahib. <br>Le contraste avec l&rsquo;effervescence pr\u00e9c\u00e9dente est saisissant. <br>Ici, tout devient paisible. Les coupoles blanches se refl\u00e8tent dans le grand bassin sacr\u00e9 tandis que les fid\u00e8les avancent la t\u00eate couverte. <br>Des b\u00e9n\u00e9voles pr\u00e9parent les repas qui seront servis gratuitement \u00e0 tous ceux qui franchissent les portes. <br>Je d\u00e9couvre la religion sikh dont les valeurs de partage et d&rsquo;humilit\u00e9 me touchent imm\u00e9diatement, loin d&rsquo;imaginer la dimension que cela prendra quelques jours plus tard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-34' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-19112017-cd-7543\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-19112017 CD 7543-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-19112017-cd-7737\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-19112017 CD 7737-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-19112017-cd-7732\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-19112017 CD 7732-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-20112017-cd-8105\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-20112017 CD 8105-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le lendemain, bien avant l&rsquo;aube, Ranjeet nous accompagne \u00e0 la gare de Delhi pour nous aider \u00e0 trouver notre train dans la foule.<br>\u00c0 l&rsquo;heure exacte, le train d\u00e9marre\u2026 pour s&rsquo;arr\u00eater compl\u00e8tement trois cents m\u00e8tres plus loin. <br>Nous attendons pr\u00e8s de trois quarts d&rsquo;heure sans que personne autour de nous ne paraisse surpris. <br>Les passagers poursuivent tranquillement leur lecture ou boivent leur chai, et Thierry et moi finissons par \u00e9clater de rire face \u00e0 ce calme absolu. <br>Le trajet est un vrai bonheur pour observer les paysages, jusqu&rsquo;au moment m\u00e9morable o\u00f9 je d\u00e9cide d&rsquo;aller aux toilettes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je d\u00e9couvre un simple trou donnant directement sur la voie ferr\u00e9e en mouvement. <br>Conserver son \u00e9quilibre dans un train qui tangue tout en essayant de viser correctement demande un certain entra\u00eenement que je ne poss\u00e9dais pas encore, mais l&rsquo;Inde sait toujours surprendre dans les moments les plus ordinaires. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dans l&rsquo;apr\u00e8s-midi, nous arrivons enfin \u00e0 Amritsar, dans le Pendjab, o\u00f9 un nouveau chauffeur nous attend et o\u00f9 les turbans color\u00e9s dessinent une tout autre ambiance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>Amritsar<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous commen\u00e7ons par rejoindre Attari, \u00e0 une trentaine de kilom\u00e8tres, o\u00f9 se d\u00e9roule chaque soir la c\u00e9l\u00e8bre c\u00e9r\u00e9monie de fermeture de la fronti\u00e8re entre l&rsquo;Inde et le Pakistan. <br>Je m&rsquo;attendais \u00e0 assister \u00e0 une parade militaire rigide et aust\u00e8re, mais je d\u00e9couvre une v\u00e9ritable f\u00eate populaire. <br>Les gradins sont remplis d&rsquo;une \u00e9nergie communicative, le public danse, agite des drapeaux et les haut-parleurs diffusent de la musique. <br>Puis les soldats de la Border Security Force font leur entr\u00e9e. <br>Leurs pas sont puissants, rythm\u00e9s, et leurs jambes se l\u00e8vent \u00e0 une hauteur spectaculaire dans une chor\u00e9graphie pr\u00e9cise, ex\u00e9cut\u00e9e \u00e0 l&rsquo;identique par les soldats pakistanais de l&rsquo;autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la grille. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En regardant les familles install\u00e9es dans les tribunes de chaque c\u00f4t\u00e9, je me dis que les rires des enfants et les applaudissements se ressemblent beaucoup.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-35' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-divers-18112017-20112017-cd-1093\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2017-divers-18112017-20112017-CD-1093-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-2017-divers-18112017-20112017-cd-1097\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-2017-divers-18112017-20112017-CD-1097-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Le Temple d\u2019Or<\/strong><br><strong>L\u00e0 o\u00f9 l\u2019or se refl\u00e8te dans les hommes<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous partons \u00e0 pied vers le Harmandir Sahib, le Temple d\u2019Or. Peu \u00e0 peu, les rues semblent toutes converger vers lui. Les fid\u00e8les avancent dans la m\u00eame direction, les hommes portent leurs turbans, les femmes couvrent leurs cheveux. Nous laissons nos chaussures, couvrons nos t\u00eates et passons les pieds dans l\u2019eau avant d\u2019entrer dans l\u2019enceinte sacr\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-36' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8393\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8393-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8396\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8396-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8398\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8398-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8411\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8411-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8413\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8413-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8442\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8442-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8443\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8443-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Puis le Temple appara\u00eet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au milieu de l\u2019Amrit<strong> <\/strong>Sarovar, le bassin sacr\u00e9 auquel la ville doit son nom, le sanctuaire semble flotter sur l\u2019eau.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je l\u2019avais vu tant de fois en photographie. Pourtant, rien ne pr\u00e9pare vraiment \u00e0 cette premi\u00e8re apparition.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-37' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8445\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8445-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8448\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8448-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8467\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8467-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8476\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8476-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8485\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8485-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8535\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8535-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8598\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8598-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8652\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8652-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8500\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8500-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il y a bien s\u00fbr l\u2019or, \u00e9clatant sous la lumi\u00e8re, mais aussi le blanc des b\u00e2timents qui entourent le bassin, le marbre sous nos pieds et ces reflets qui tremblent doucement \u00e0 la surface de l\u2019eau. Les chants accompagnent les pri\u00e8res et semblent envelopper toute l\u2019enceinte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Malgr\u00e9 la foule, je ne ressens aucune agitation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous avan\u00e7ons lentement autour du bassin, observant les fid\u00e8les qui viennent prier, accomplir leurs ablutions, s\u2019asseoir face au sanctuaire ou simplement passer un moment ici en famille. Certains discutent tranquillement sur le marbre, d\u2019autres restent longtemps silencieux devant l\u2019eau.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-38' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8456\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8456-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8459\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8459-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8475\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8475-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8483\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8483-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8491\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8491-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8492\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8492-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8496\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8496-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8507\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8507-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8505\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8505-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8522\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8522-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8516\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8516-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8518\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8518-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8537\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8537-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8545\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8545-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8556\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8556-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C\u2019est peut-\u00eatre cela qui me touche le plus : le Temple d\u2019Or n\u2019est pas seulement un monument que l\u2019on vient admirer. C\u2019est un lieu que l\u2019on vit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je retrouve \u00e9videmment derri\u00e8re mon appareil tout ce qui m\u2019attire en Inde : les turbans aux couleurs magnifiques, les longues barbes, les v\u00eatements traditionnels, les silhouettes des Nihangs v\u00eatus de bleu et portant leurs armes traditionnelles. Mais ici, les hommes ne sont pas un d\u00e9cor autour du temple. Ils en font partie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Une autre forme de richesse<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous d\u00e9couvrons ensuite le langar, l\u2019immense cuisine communautaire du Temple d\u2019Or.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le principe est aussi simple qu\u2019extraordinaire : toute personne qui entre ici peut manger gratuitement, quelle que soit sa religion, son origine ou sa condition sociale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dans les cuisines, l\u2019activit\u00e9 est incessante. Des b\u00e9n\u00e9voles pr\u00e9parent les l\u00e9gumes, p\u00e9trissent, cuisinent autour d\u2019immenses marmites, servent puis lavent la vaisselle avant que tout recommence. Des milliers de repas sont ainsi pr\u00e9par\u00e9s chaque jour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-39' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8621\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8621-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8616\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8616-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8618\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8618-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8614\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8614-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8642\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8642-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8625\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8625-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8641\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8641-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8645\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8645-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous nous asseyons \u00e0 notre tour par terre, c\u00f4te \u00e0 c\u00f4te avec les autres, et recevons le m\u00eame repas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Personne n\u2019est privil\u00e9gi\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Personne n\u2019est oubli\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je trouve cette id\u00e9e profond\u00e9ment belle. Dans un lieu couvert d\u2019or, ce que je retiens finalement comme la plus grande richesse est peut-\u00eatre cette assiette offerte \u00e0 celui qui arrive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Du matin jusqu\u2019\u00e0 la nuit<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous passons des heures dans l\u2019enceinte du Temple.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La lumi\u00e8re change et avec elle le sanctuaire. Le matin, une l\u00e9g\u00e8re brume adoucit parfois les b\u00e2timents blancs. Puis l\u2019or devient plus intense, les reflets s\u2019allongent sur le bassin et les couleurs des v\u00eatements des fid\u00e8les viennent ponctuer tout ce blanc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous nous asseyons nous aussi simplement au bord de l\u2019eau.<br>Il n\u2019y a rien \u00e0 faire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Seulement regarder et \u00e9couter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-40' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8653\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8653-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8668\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8668-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-21112017-cd-8657\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-21112017 CD 8657-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Puis nous revenons lorsque la nuit est tomb\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et le Temple d\u2019Or devient presque irr\u00e9el.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Les b\u00e2timents blancs s\u2019illuminent dans l\u2019obscurit\u00e9, les coupoles apparaissent dans le ciel noir et les lumi\u00e8res se refl\u00e8tent sur le marbre et dans le bassin. Le sanctuaire semble d\u00e9sormais suspendu au milieu de la nuit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-41' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8895\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8895-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8928\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8928-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8891\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8891-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-21112017-cd-8875\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-21112017 CD 8875-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous restons longtemps encore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je suis venue \u00e0 Amritsar pour d\u00e9couvrir l\u2019un des monuments les plus c\u00e9l\u00e8bres de l\u2019Inde. J\u2019y ai trouv\u00e9 bien davantage : un lieu o\u00f9 la foi se m\u00eale naturellement \u00e0 la vie quotidienne, o\u00f9 l\u2019on prie, o\u00f9 l\u2019on se retrouve, o\u00f9 l\u2019on partage un repas et o\u00f9 chacun semble avoir sa place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le Temple d\u2019Or est somptueux.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mais j\u2019ai surtout d\u00e9couvert qu\u2019un lieu pouvait \u00eatre sacr\u00e9 sans tenir les hommes \u00e0 distance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>Ici, ce sont eux qui lui donnent sa lumi\u00e8re. Dharamsala \u2013 Une parenth\u00e8se entre deux mondes<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La route s&rsquo;\u00e9l\u00e8ve ensuite vers Dharamsala, au pied de l&rsquo;Himalaya, o\u00f9 les plaines laissent place aux montagnes et o\u00f9 l&rsquo;air devient soudain plus frais au milieu des for\u00eats de c\u00e8dres. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous nous installons au Divine Hima, face \u00e0 une vue magnifique sur les sommets. <br>Nous visitons le Namgyal Monastery, c\u0153ur spirituel du peuple tib\u00e9tain en exil o\u00f9 vit la communaut\u00e9 du Dala\u00ef-Lama depuis 1959.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">L&rsquo;atmosph\u00e8re y est paisible et suspendue : les moines en robe grenat traversent les cours et les moulins \u00e0 pri\u00e8res tournent sous le vol des drapeaux multicolores. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-42' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-22112017-cd-9051\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-22112017 CD 9051-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-22112017-cd-9054\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-22112017 CD 9054-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-22112017-cd-9056\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-22112017 CD 9056-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-22112017-cd-9060\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-22112017 CD 9060-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-22112017-cd-9065\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-22112017 CD 9065-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-22112017-cd-9067\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-22112017 CD 9067-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-22112017-cd-9071\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-22112017 CD 9071-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-22112017-cd-9089\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-22112017 CD 9089-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-22112017-cd-9090\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-22112017 CD 9090-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le lendemain matin, je me r\u00e9veille avant l&rsquo;aube pour photographier les sommets embras\u00e9es par une lumi\u00e8re rouge orang\u00e9 presque irr\u00e9elle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-43' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-22112017-cd-9125\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-22112017 CD 9125-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En marchant vers McLeod Ganj, le d\u00e9cor change compl\u00e8tement : les enseignes sont \u00e9crites en tib\u00e9tain et les ruelles d\u00e9bordent d&rsquo;encens et d&rsquo;objets artisanaux. <br>Au d\u00e9tour des passages \u00e9troits, je remarque de petits \u00e2nes lourdement charg\u00e9s de pierres ou de ciment. <br>Ils gravissent patiemment les chemins l\u00e0 o\u00f9 aucune voiture ne passe, mais leur charge me serre le c\u0153ur, tant j&rsquo;ai du mal \u00e0 voir les animaux travailler ainsi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-44' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-23112017-cd-9183\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-23112017 CD 9183-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-23112017-cd-9186\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-23112017 CD 9186-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-23112017-cd-9198\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-23112017 CD 9198-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-23112017-cd-9206\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-23112017 CD 9206-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-23112017-cd-9210\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-23112017 CD 9210-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-23112017-cd-9248\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-23112017 CD 9248-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-23112017-cd-9297\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-23112017 CD 9297-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bien que cette culture soit passionnante et les paysages grandioses, je dois \u00eatre honn\u00eate : Dharamsala aura \u00e9t\u00e9 une parenth\u00e8se sereine, mais c&rsquo;est l&rsquo;endroit o\u00f9 je me suis sentie le moins en Inde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-45' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-22112017-cd-9102\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-22112017 CD 9102-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-23112017-cd-9213\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-23112017 CD 9213-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-23112017-cd-9303\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-23112017 CD 9303-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-23112017-cd-9307\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-23112017 CD 9307-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-23112017-cd-9320\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-23112017 CD 9320-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"> <br>Mon \u00e2me cherchait d\u00e9j\u00e0 l&rsquo;effervescence indienne, ses march\u00e9s improvis\u00e9s, ses sc\u00e8nes de rue et ses regards spontan\u00e9s \u00e9chang\u00e9s au coin d&rsquo;une ruelle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous embarquons finalement \u00e0 bord d&rsquo;un petit avion bimoteur, la place pr\u00e8s du hublot m&rsquo;offrant un dernier regard sur les cr\u00eates enneig\u00e9es de l&rsquo;Himalaya.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-46' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-divers-2017-24112017-img-1389\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-divers-2017-24112017-IMG-1389-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>Retour \u00e0 Delhi \u2013 Regards vol\u00e9s avant l&rsquo;au-revoir<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">De retour \u00e0 Delhi, Pal nous accueille \u00e0 l&rsquo;a\u00e9roport avec son \u00e9ternel sourire pour nos derni\u00e8res visites.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nous commen\u00e7ons par le Fort Rouge et ses immenses murailles de gr\u00e8s rouge construits par Shah Jahan. <br>\u00c0 l&rsquo;int\u00e9rieur, les colonnades filtrent une lumi\u00e8re dor\u00e9e de fin d&rsquo;apr\u00e8s-midi, et les s\u00e9ances photo improvis\u00e9es reprennent : des familles enti\u00e8res me demandent de les immortaliser et des enfants \u00e9clatent de rire devant mon objectif. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-47' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-24112017-cd-9428\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-24112017 CD 9428-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-24112017-cd-9453\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-24112017 CD 9453-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-24112017-cd-9468\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-24112017 CD 9468-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-24112017-cd-9470\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-24112017 CD 9470-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-24112017-cd-9476\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-24112017 CD 9476-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-24112017-cd-9479\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-24112017 CD 9479-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-24112017-cd-9481\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-24112017 CD 9481-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-24112017-cd-9496\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-24112017 CD 9496-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-24112017-cd-9511\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-24112017 CD 9511-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-24112017-cd-9513\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-24112017 CD 9513-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En Inde, on ne photographie jamais longtemps seul, et cette proximit\u00e9 me pla\u00eet. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>Pour cette derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape, nous d\u00e9couvrons le Qutub Minar, cette immense tour de gr\u00e8s rouge qui domine le sud de la ville depuis plus de huit si\u00e8cles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Avec ses 72,5 m\u00e8tres de hauteur, elle est la plus haute tour en pierre de l\u2019Inde. Sa construction d\u00e9bute \u00e0 la toute fin du XII\u1d49 si\u00e8cle sous Qutb-ud-Din Aibak, premier souverain du sultanat de Delhi, puis se poursuit sous ses successeurs. <br>Ses cinq \u00e9tages se distinguent par leurs balcons, tandis que la pierre est couverte de fines sculptures, de motifs g\u00e9om\u00e9triques et de longues frises d\u2019inscriptions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mais le Qutub Minar n\u2019est pas seul. Autour de lui s\u2019\u00e9tend tout un ensemble de vestiges qui raconte les d\u00e9buts de l\u2019architecture islamique \u00e0 Delhi. On y trouve notamment la mosqu\u00e9e Quwwat-ul-Islam, consid\u00e9r\u00e9e comme la plus ancienne mosqu\u00e9e du nord de l\u2019Inde, le tombeau d\u2019Iltutmish et la tr\u00e8s belle porte Alai Darwaza, construite en 1311.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-48' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-25112017-cd-9849\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-25112017 CD 9849-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-25112017-cd-9852\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-25112017 CD 9852-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-25112017-cd-9854\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-25112017 CD 9854-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-25112017-cd-9856\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-25112017 CD 9856-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-25112017-cd-9858\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-25112017 CD 9858-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-25112017-cd-9864\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-25112017 CD 9864-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-25112017-cd-9880\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-25112017 CD 9880-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-25112017-cd-9911\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-25112017 CD 9911-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-25112017-cd-9943\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-25112017 CD 9943-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-25112017-cd-9965\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-25112017 CD 9965-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au milieu de ces ruines se dresse aussi une curiosit\u00e9 bien plus ancienne encore : un pilier de fer portant une inscription sanskrite du IV\u1d49 si\u00e8cle, remarquable t\u00e9moignage du savoir-faire des m\u00e9tallurgistes indiens de l&rsquo;\u00e9poque.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">J\u2019aime assez l\u2019id\u00e9e de terminer ce voyage ici. Apr\u00e8s toutes les routes parcourues depuis notre arriv\u00e9e en Inde, nous nous retrouvons devant un monument qui, lui, regarde passer Delhi depuis huit cents ans.<br>Dans les jardins, je capture le contraste saisissant d&rsquo;une jeune femme aux longs cheveux roux au milieu des couleurs indiennes, tandis que Thierry photographie un groupe de coll\u00e9giens fac\u00e9tieux qui s&rsquo;organisent en rang et prennent la pose en riant d\u00e8s qu&rsquo;ils aper\u00e7oivent son appareil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-49' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-25112017-cd-9903\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-25112017 CD 9903-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-25112017-cd-9840\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-25112017 CD 9840-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-25112017-cd-9922\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-25112017 CD 9922-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-25112017-cd-9909\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-25112017 CD 9909-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-25112017-cd-9916\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-25112017 CD 9916-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-25112017-cd-9841\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-25112017 CD 9841-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-25112017-cd-9934\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-25112017 CD 9934-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-25112017-cd-9935\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-25112017 CD 9935-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le Qutub Minar sera notre derni\u00e8re visite de 2017. Une derni\u00e8re promenade entre le gr\u00e8s rouge et les ruines avant de refermer, provisoirement, la porte de l\u2019Inde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-50' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-divers-25112017-cd-9870\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-25112017 CD 9870-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pourtant, au moment de rejoindre l\u2019a\u00e9roport, ce ne sont pas les grands monuments qui gravent leurs empreintes ultimes. Ce sont encore ces vies crois\u00e9es au bord des rues, celles que l\u2019on pourrait ne pas voir tant Delhi oblige \u00e0 regarder partout \u00e0 la fois.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Apr\u00e8s tout ce que j\u2019ai d\u00e9j\u00e0 d\u00e9couvert de l\u2019Inde, elles continuent pourtant \u00e0 m\u2019arr\u00eater. Je les vois. Je ne cherche ni \u00e0 expliquer leur histoire, ni \u00e0 imaginer ce qui les a conduites l\u00e0. Je les photographie avec le m\u00eame respect que depuis le d\u00e9but, parce qu\u2019elles font elles aussi partie de cette Inde qui me bouleverse, loin des palais, des temples et des splendeurs que nous venons de traverser.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-51' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2017-20112017-cd-8102\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2017-20112017 CD 8102-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2017-16112017-cd-6459\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2017-16112017 CD 6459-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2017-24112017-cd-9398\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2017-24112017 CD 9398-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2017-19112017-cd-7718\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2017-19112017 CD 7718-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2017-15112017-cd-5937\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2017-15112017 CD 5937-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2017-19112017-cd-7673\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2017-19112017 CD 7673-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2017-25112017-cd-9807\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2017-25112017 CD 9807-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-2017-24112017-cd-93621\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-2017-24112017 CD 93621-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Il y a cependant deux images qui resteront davantage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Celle d\u2019une petite fille, seule pr\u00e8s d\u2019un poteau m\u00e9tallique, occup\u00e9e \u00e0 faire br\u00fbler quelques allumettes. Une sc\u00e8ne minuscule au milieu de l\u2019immensit\u00e9 de Delhi, qui me renvoie malgr\u00e9 moi \u00e0 La Petite Fille aux allumettes. Je ne connais rien d\u2019elle, mais cette image me serre encore le c\u0153ur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div><div id='gallery-52' class='gallery galleryid-4540 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/inde-portrait-invis-2017-18112017-cd-7520\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2017-18112017 CD 7520-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Et puis il y a cet homme et ses cinquante roupies. Trois d\u00e9clenchements presque instinctifs, quelques secondes seulement pendant lesquelles je le regarde compter et recompter ce billet avec une attention infinie. Cinquante roupies : si peu pour certains, manifestement beaucoup pour lui. Je n\u2019ai jamais su ce que repr\u00e9sentait r\u00e9ellement cet argent, et je pr\u00e9f\u00e8re ne rien inventer. Son visage et ses gestes suffisent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Inde-Portrait-Invis-2026-23072026%20CD%209538-2048x731.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-7003\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">L\u2019Inde ne se r\u00e9sume d\u00e9cid\u00e9ment pas \u00e0 ses palais de gr\u00e8s, \u00e0 ses temples ou \u00e0 ses monuments extraordinaires. Elle est aussi faite de ceux que l\u2019on d\u00e9passe sans les regarder. Moi, je les ai vus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En quittant Delhi, je comprends que ce voyage me laisse des fragments d&rsquo;humanit\u00e9, des histoires muettes et des rencontres silencieuses qui, sans un mot, continuent d&rsquo;habiter mon c\u0153ur et de me parler. Mon regard a chang\u00e9, et l&rsquo;Inde a d\u00e9finitivement pris une autre couleur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Pendant des mois, je me suis surprise \u00e0 repenser \u00e0 mon premier voyage.<br \/>\nUne couleur aper\u00e7ue dans une vitrine, l&rsquo;odeur d&rsquo;une \u00e9pice, une photographie retrouv\u00e9e au fond d&rsquo;un tiroir\u2026 il suffisait de presque rien pour que les souvenirs du Rajasthan remontent.<br \/>\nCe premier contact m&rsquo;avait \u00e9merveill\u00e9e, mais j&rsquo;avais le sentiment \u00e9trange de n&rsquo;en avoir vu que la surface.<br \/>\nCette fois, je voulais aller plus loin, toucher l&rsquo;\u00e2me, la spiritualit\u00e9 et l&rsquo;humain, jusqu&rsquo;aux rives sacr\u00e9es du Gange.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4666,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[166],"tags":[175],"class_list":["post-4540","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-indeen2017","tag-175"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>2017 : L&#039;Inde prend une autre couleur - Les Voyages d\u2019Ac\u00e9lione<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"2017 : L&#039;Inde prend une autre couleur - Les Voyages d\u2019Ac\u00e9lione\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Pendant des mois, je me suis surprise \u00e0 repenser \u00e0 mon premier voyage. Une couleur aper\u00e7ue dans une vitrine, l&#039;odeur d&#039;une \u00e9pice, une photographie retrouv\u00e9e au fond d&#039;un tiroir\u2026 il suffisait de presque rien pour que les souvenirs du Rajasthan remontent. Ce premier contact m&#039;avait \u00e9merveill\u00e9e, mais j&#039;avais le sentiment \u00e9trange de n&#039;en avoir vu que la surface. Cette fois, je voulais aller plus loin, toucher l&#039;\u00e2me, la spiritualit\u00e9 et l&#039;humain, jusqu&#039;aux rives sacr\u00e9es du Gange.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Les Voyages d\u2019Ac\u00e9lione\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2017-11-27T08:47:08+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2026-08-21T07:59:52+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017%20CD%206429.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"2400\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1500\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Catherine\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Catherine\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"28 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/acelione.fr\\\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/acelione.fr\\\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Catherine\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/acelione.fr\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/7525dfc075d1b6aabfeebbb5691f4d67\"},\"headline\":\"2017 : L&rsquo;Inde prend une autre couleur\",\"datePublished\":\"2017-11-27T08:47:08+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2026-08-21T07:59:52+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/acelione.fr\\\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":6200,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/acelione.fr\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/acelione.fr\\\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/acelione.fr\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2026\\\/08\\\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6429.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"2017\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Inde en 2017\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/acelione.fr\\\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/acelione.fr\\\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/acelione.fr\\\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\\\/\",\"name\":\"2017 : L'Inde prend une autre couleur - 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Une couleur aper\u00e7ue dans une vitrine, l'odeur d'une \u00e9pice, une photographie retrouv\u00e9e au fond d'un tiroir\u2026 il suffisait de presque rien pour que les souvenirs du Rajasthan remontent. Ce premier contact m'avait \u00e9merveill\u00e9e, mais j'avais le sentiment \u00e9trange de n'en avoir vu que la surface. Cette fois, je voulais aller plus loin, toucher l'\u00e2me, la spiritualit\u00e9 et l'humain, jusqu'aux rives sacr\u00e9es du Gange.","og_url":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/en\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\/","og_site_name":"Les Voyages d\u2019Ac\u00e9lione","article_published_time":"2017-11-27T08:47:08+00:00","article_modified_time":"2026-08-21T07:59:52+00:00","og_image":[{"width":2400,"height":1500,"url":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6429.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Catherine","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"Catherine","Estimated reading time":"28 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\/"},"author":{"name":"Catherine","@id":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/#\/schema\/person\/7525dfc075d1b6aabfeebbb5691f4d67"},"headline":"2017 : L&rsquo;Inde prend une autre couleur","datePublished":"2017-11-27T08:47:08+00:00","dateModified":"2026-08-21T07:59:52+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\/"},"wordCount":6200,"commentCount":0,"publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/#organization"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/2017-Divers-16112017 CD 6429.jpg","keywords":["2017"],"articleSection":["Inde en 2017"],"inLanguage":"en-GB","potentialAction":[{"@type":"CommentAction","name":"Comment","target":["https:\/\/acelione.fr\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\/#respond"]}]},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\/","url":"https:\/\/acelione.fr\/2017-linde-prend-une-autre-couleur\/","name":"2017 : L'Inde prend une autre couleur - 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